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DRAFTSMAN’S  MANUAL ; 

OR, 

“ HOW  CAN  I LEARN  ARCHITECTURE  ? ” 

HINTS  TO  ENQUIRERS. 
DIRECTIONS  IN  DRAFTSMANSHIP. 
NEW  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED  EDITION. 

BY 

F.  T.  CAMP, 

ARCHITECT. 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK, 

6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


18  83. 


Copyright  by 
W.  T„  COMSTOCK 
1882. 


8/30  57  gl* J.Lake  SejJ?,  2#  3-/rfjj 


74f 

(L-jri 

) 823 

CONTENTS. 


Page 

INTRODUCTION,  . . . . . . 4 

Preliminary  Words,  , ■ . . . 4 

Draftsman’s  Outfit  (see  Appendix  A),  . . 5 

Technics  |f  Planning,  . . . 6 

General  Remarks  on  Planning,  . . .17 

General  Remarks  on  Exteriors,  . . 19 


i 

Drawing  Ithe  Plan,  . . , . .22 

Using  th|  Instruments,  23 

I 

Designing-^  the  Elevations,  . . . .25 

Tracing  and  Inking, 28 

The  Architect,  . . . . . ,30 


The  Proportion  of  Rooms  (Appendix  B),  38 


996843 


INTRODUCTION. 


Haying  frequently  been  asked,  by  wide-awake  young  car- 
penters and  builders,  how  best  to  qualify  themselves  for  prac- 
tising the  profession  of  Architecture,  I have  in  the  following 
pages  set  down  the  steps  which  to  that  class  are  necessary 
and  expedient,  in  the  order  that  they  must  be  undertaken. 

In  the  hope  that  what  I here  set  forth  may  be  found  of  use 
to  such  mechanics  as  are  of  inquiring  minds  in  this  direction, 
and  that  such  as  are  of  the  right  stuff  may  be  encouraged  and 
helped,  I trust  this  little  attempt  to  its  public. 

Fked’k  T.  Camp, 

Architect. 


PRELIMINARY  WORDS. 

In  attempting  to  supply  by  these  simple  directions  a want 
which  has  frequently  been  expressed  to  me,  I will  confine  my 
scope  strictly  to  a practical  description  of  the  methods  in  use 
for  placing  upon  paper  and  other  materials  those  somewhat 
mystic  lines  called  plans,  elevations,  and  sections — so  often 
erroneously  denominated  Architecture  when  the  word  ought 
to  be  Draftsmanship. 

The  query  generally  runs,  “ I want  to  learn  architecture 
a term  often  much  broader  than  the  real  intention  in  the 
majority  of  instances,  as  the  ambitious  ones  only  mean  that 
they  want  to  learn  how  to  make  plans,  sections,  elevations,  and 
details.  They  don’t  really  want  to  go  through  the  course 
necessary  to  thoroughly  inform  them  as  to  the  History  of 
Architecture  ; the  styles — classic,  Gothic,  and  Renaissance : 
but  they  think  that  the  draftsmanship  necessary  to  enable  them 
to  draw  plans,  etc.,  of  common,  everyday  city  and  country 
houses  is  Architecture  ; and  so  they  want  to  “ learn”  it. 

I have  presumed  in  the  foregoing  that  the  real  desire  on 
the  part  of  any  inquirers  is  to  learn  draftsmanship  and  not 
architecture ; and  of  the  former  I shall  treat  first,  reserving 
the  topic  of  architecture  until  the  previous  one  of  draftsman- 
ship is  disposed  of. 


DBAFTSMAN’S  MANUAL. 


DRAFTSMAN'S  OUTFIT  ENUMERATED. 

Drawing-board,  a convenient  size,  24  x 36  inches. 

Two  T squares,  one  24  inches  and  one  48  inches. 

Three  triangles,  one  each  of  angles  27^°,  45°,  60°. 

A dozen  thumb  tacks,  preferably  of  German  silver. 

Pencils  of  varying  hardness,  say  half  a dozen,  from  No.  4 
to  6 H,  or  corresponding  numbers. 

Kubber,  not  too  hard,  and  close  grained. 

An  ink  slab  and  well  of  white  earthenware  or  slate. 

A set  earthenware  color  saucers. 

Half  dozen  camel’s-hair  brushes  of  different  sizes. 

Four  cakes  of  colors — red,  blue,  brown,  ochre — and  as 
many  others  as  are  desired. 

A stick  of  India-ink — the  best  is  the  cheapest. 

Instruments — one  pair  plain  4^-inch  dividers  ; one  large 
compass,  fitted  with  pencil  and  pen  legs  ; one  small  compass, 
fitted  as  before  ; two  ruling  pens,  large  and  small  ; a foot- 
rule.  These  are  necessaries.  Most  draftsmen  have  more  in- 
struments, gotten  at  times  when  specially  needed,  such  as 
spring  dividers,  large  and  small  ; standard  steel  scales,  com- 
prising many  divisions  to  the  inch  ; proportional  dividers, 
parallel  rules  ; protractors  ; small  fine  compasses,  both  pencil 
and  pen  ; crow-quill  drawing-pen  points,  etc.,  etc.  * 

White  paper  comes  either  in  sheets  of  different  sizes,  from 
small  or  ordinary  to  large  or  double  elephant ; or  in  rolls  of 
48  and  52  inches  wide,  and  twenty  or  thirty  yards  in  length  ; 
but  a yard  or  so  can  be  purchased  at  a time,  and  is  more 
economical  for  general  use,  as  pieces  of  any  size  can  be  cut 
from  it,  and  there  is  less  waste  than  when  sheets  of  a uniform 
size  are  used  for  all  purposes.  It  is  not  necessary  to  use 
white  paper  for  any  of  the  drawings  unless  they  are  to  be 
nicely  colored,  or  are  for  show  ; but  a good  grade  of  heavy 
light  brown  manilla  paper  will  answer  every  purpose  and  be 
much  cheaper.  It  comes  in  rolls  only,  but  can  be  bought  by 
the  yard  or  pound.  Tracing-cloth  is  a semi-transparent 
fabric,  consisting  of  linen  cloth, prepared  with  wax  and  tur- 
pentine in  a manner  that  leaves  one  side  with  a high  gloss  and 
the  reverse  of  a dull  appearance.  Some  tracing  cloths  have 

*See  Appendix  A. 


DRAFTSMAN  S MANUAL. 


6 

both  sides  glazed,  bat  the  best  have  dull  back.  Opinions 
differ  as  to  which  side  is  best  to  put  the  ink  on.  If  the  trac- 
ing is  t*o  be  colored  the  dull  side  takes  colors  best,  though  if 
the  lines  are  on  the  dull  side  the  reverse  will  take  the  colors, 
but  with  some  difficulty  ; but  bear  this  in  mind — always  color 
on  the  reverse  side  from  that  on  which  the  ink  lines  are.  If 
this  is  not  done  the  color  brush  will  be  sure  to  soften  and 
spread  the  ink  lines.  When  tracing-cloth  has  been  kept  in 
too  dry  a place,  or  is  old,  it  becomes  difficult  to  make  the  ink 
flow  evenly  on  the  smooth  surface.  In  that  case  a minute 
quantity  of  ox-gall  or  soapsuds  in  the  ink  will  cause  this 
difficulty  to  disappear. 


TECHNICS  OF  PLAMIXG. 

Assuming  the  young  man  who  wants  directions  in  drafts- 
manship to  be  ordinarily  well  educated  as  to  arithmetic,  read- 
ing, writing,  and  spelling,  and,  above  all,  attentive  and  eager 
to  learn,  his  own  experience  in  carpentry  or  masonry  enabling 
him  to  understand  all  the  points  about  material,  etc.,  puzzling 
to  many  beginners,  he  must  first  try  to  understand  how  the 
plans  are  intended  to  actually  represent  the  building,  at  differ- 
ent stages  of  its  construction.  In  general,  the  plans  show 
the  appearance  of  the  walls,  as  if  left  with  a horizontal  face, 
cutting  through  the  windows  and  doors  at  some  point  in 
their  height — just  where  is  immaterial. 

It  is  customary  to  show  all  such  openings,  whether  they 
would  be  in  such  an  imaginary  plane  of  section  or  not,  lead- 
ing to  the  elevations  or  further  drawings  to  show  the  heights, 
if  irregular. 

The  drawings  are  usually  made  on  a scale  of  four  feet  to 
one  inch — familiarly  called  “ quarter-inch  scale,”  and  some 
of  large  buildings  on  an  eighth  inch  scale,  or  eight  feet  to  an 
inch.  Elevations  and  sections  should  be  on  the  same  scale  as 
the  plans. 

For  instance,  a plan  of  a base  course  would  show  a contin- 
uous wall  (except -where  openings  were  to  be  left  for  passage 
of  drains,  etc.)  of  the  necessary  width — three  feet,  three  feet 
and  a half,  etc. 

The  foundation  or  cellar  wall  would  show  solid,  ex- 
cept where  doors,  windows,  ventilating  apertures,  and  the 


draftsman’s  manual. 


7 


like  were  to  be,  which  would  be  indicateJ  by  lines,  showing 
somewhat  as  a cross-section  of  the  article  in  question  would 
appear. 

Piers,  buttresses,  stair  bulkheads,  and  cisterns  are  shown 
by  solid  walls,  colored.  A general  definition  of  the  way  to 
represent  walls  is  : the  two  faces  are  lines,  and  the  body  of 
the  wall  is  colored  blue  for  stone,  or  brown,  as  may  be  the 
color  of  the  stone  to  be  used  ; red  for  brick  ; a reddish  yellow 
ochre  or  orange  color  for  wood  ; drab  for  slate  courses ; 
brown  for  black  walnut,  brown  stone,  etc.,  etc. 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2. 

Fig.  1 represents  the  character  of  most  of  the  windows  put 
in  cellar  walls  to  light  cellars.  The  outside  double  line  is  a 
winter  sash  and  the  inside  one  the  common  sash.  Tbe 
shaded  part  is  stone  wall.  The  window-frame  is  of  plank, 
not  boxed,  and  the  sash  are  hinged  or  fastened  in  with 
buttons. 

Fig.  2 shows  how  a window  in  a wall  of  a frame  house  is 
represented.  The  shaded  part  is  the  wall.  ' 

Fig.  3 represents  a section  of  a window  set  in  an  eight  inch 
brick  wall.  The  shaded  part  is  the  wall,  and  the  squares  are 
the  boxes.  The  furring,  plastering,  etc.,  are  shown  by  the  ex- 
tra line  on  the  wall,  and  the  architrave  or  casing  and  sill  are 
inside  the  window. 


Fig.  3.  Fig.  4. 

Fig.  4. — This  example  shows  how  to  represent  a double  or 
single  external  door  in  a frame  wall.  The  sill  projects,  as  do 
all  the  others,  and  the  shaded  part  is  the  mass  of  the  wall. 

Fig.  5 represents  a section  of  a double  or  single  door  in  the 
wall  of  a brick  house.  The  wall  is  eight-inch,  and  is  shaded. 
The  frame,  with  fillet  on  the  brick  side,  shows  on  the  jambs, 
and  the  furring,  lath,  and  plaster  inside. 

Fig.  6 shows  the  usual  plan  of  steps  and  step  buttresses,  of 
either  wood  or  stone.  As  a general  form,  it  is  well  under- 
stood, but  of  course  special  designs  in  any  of  these  illustra- 
tions given  would  alter  more  or  less  their  forms. 


8 


draftsman’s  manual. 


Fig.  7. — This  cut  is  of  a wooden  bay,  projecting  from  a 
frame  house-wall.  The  angle  of  the  sides  is  60°  with  the 
wall.  The  length  of  the  sides  is  equal.  The  outside  line  is 
that  of  the  sill.  The  dotted  crossed  lines  and  parallel  ones 


Fig.  5. 


- 

k 

j 

Fig.  6. 


show  that  the  opening  into  the  bay  is  arched.  The  shaded 
parts  represent  the  wall  and  angles. 

Fig.  8 is  also  of  a bay,  but  of  brick  attached  to  a brick 
wall.  The  angles  are  calculated  of  4 and  8 inches  to  avoid 
cutting  the  brick,  and  the  sides  are  recessed  for  the  same 
reason.  The  shaded  parts  are  of  brick,  and  the  clear  parts  are 


Fig.  7. 


Fig.  8. 


the  box  frames,  furring  for  jambs  of  arch,  wall,  etc.  The 
dotted  lines  represent  arch  as  before  given. 

Fig.  9 shows  how  to  represent  a roof  plan,  to  show  the 
ridges,  hips,  valleys,  chimneys,  etc.  The  heavy  black  line 
inside  the  eaves,  or  cornice,  is  the  position  of  the  plate,  or 


Fig.  10. 


outside  wall.  The  slopes  are  lined  horizontally  with  the  fall* 
and  represent  the  lines  or  rows  of  slate  or  shingles. 

Fig.  10  represents  part  of  a church  wall,  showing  a but- 
tress, and  half  of  a window.  The  jambs  are  seen  at  an  angle, 


draftsman’s  manual. 


9 


instead  of  square  with  the  wall  ; because  generally  windows 
in  churches  are  so  narrow  that  the  splay  is  a necessity,  to  in- 
crease the  number  of  entering  rays  of  light.  Not  many  church 
windows  are  made  to  slide  like  the  ordinary  ones,  and  yet 
the  practice  is  on  the  increase. 

Fig.  11  shows  how  a partition,  showing  the  base,  is  repre- 
sented. If  base  is  not  desired  to  be  shown,  omit  the  outer 
lines.  The  inner  lines  represent  the  plaster  faces  of  the  two 
sides  of  the  wall,  and  the  studding  is  2 x 6 inches. 


Fig.  11.  Fig.  12.  Fig.  13. 

Fig.  12  is  similar  in  all  respects  to  the  foregoing,  except 
that  it  represents  a partition  where  the  studding  is  2x4 
inches. 

Fig.  13  represents  a pocket  for  sliding  doors,  and  shows 
how  the  inside  should  be  lined.  The  partition  in  which  a set 
of  sliding  doors  is  placed  must  always  be  much  thicker  than 
an  ordinary  one,  and,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  doors 
and  the  size  of  the  studding,  varies  from  eleven  to  fourteen 
inches  between  the  plaster  faces  of  the  two  sides  of  the  wall. 

Fig.  14  illustrates  the  way  of  showing  a range  placed  in 
kitchens.  The  wall  back  of  it  is  of  studding,  covered  with 
sheathing  and  clapboards.  Inside  is  the  plastering  and  base. 
These  divisions  of  the  wall  are  not  usually  shown  on  scale 
drawings.  The  shaded  part  is  brick. 


Fig.  14.  Fig.  15. 


Fig.  15  shows  section  of  a chimney  in  a wooden  house, 
with  a fireplace  and  mantel.  The  component  parts  of  the 
wall,  again,  are  not  usually  shown  on  scale  drawings,  but  are 
given  here  to  illustrate  the  construction. 

Fig.  16  is  a section,  as  usually  constructed,  of  a chimney 
breast  in  an  upper  story — for  instance,  where  no  fireplace  is 
desired.  It  shows  the  flues,  both  from  below  and  on  the 
floor,  surrounded  by  a four-inch  brick  wall.  Flues  are  gen- 


10 


DRAFTSMAN’S  MANUAL. 


erally  called  for  to  be  pargetted — that  is,  plastered  with  a 
peculiar  composition  of  mortar  ; but  many  prefer,  instead  of 
enforcing  that  clause,  to  have  the  joints  perfectly  filled  with 
mortar,  and  the  inside  face  struck  flush,  plastering  the  room 
side  of  the  stack  also,  to  prevent  any  spark  from  finding  its 
way  through.  Thus  done,  four  inches 
in  dwelling-house  chimneys — which  is 
the  usual  thickness  of  their  inside  walls 
— is  as  good  as  eight  inches  if  done  in 
the  usual  careless  manner  of  laying  up 
general  walling.  The  shaded  parts 
are  brick,  the  plastering,  furring,  etc.,  showing  by  an  extra 
line  inside. 

Fig.  17  represents  how  a register  in  a wall  is  shown.  The 
shaded  part  is  the  wall.  Nice  wall  registers  generally  have  a 
projecting  front,  though  the  majority  of  them  are  made  flush, 
then  appearing  more  like  Fig.  19,  which  is  a ventilating 
valve  register.  Registers  in  the  floor,  when  used,  which 
ought  to  be  seldom,  are  shown  by  lines  in  an  oblong  figure, 
with  crossed  diameters,  and  the  size  in  figures  marked  thereon. 

Fig.  18  shows  a hot-air  flue  in  a wall.  The  flue  supplies 
an  upper  part,  but  their  location  is  oftentimes  necessary  to 
be  determined  in  the  floor  below.  All  hot-air  flues  should 
be  surrounded  by  iron  lath  throughout  their  passage,  and  the 


Fig.  17. 


Fig.  18. 


Fig.  19. 


flue  itself  and  the  register-box  in  the  best  work  are  made 
double,  with  an  inch  of  space  between  inner  and  outer  skins, 
thus  reducing  the  chances  of  a conflagration  from  an  over- 
heated furnace  to  a minimum.  The  shaded  parts  are  the 
surrounding  wall. 

Fig.  19  illustrates  the  method  of  indicating  on  a plan  a ven- 
tilating flue.  The  shaded  part  is  a brick  wall,  and  the  flue  is 
a notch  or  jog  4x8  inches.  At  every  opening,  where  the 
flue  communicates  with  the  room,  is  placed  some  form  of 
register  controlling  the  flow  of  air.  In  wooden  walls  a flue  of 
wood  or  tin  should  be  used. 

« Fig.  20  illustrates  the  usual  way  of  showing  a hot-air  fur- 
nace in  a cellar.  The  walls  are  of  eight-inch  brick,  and  in 
the  centre  are  shown  the  grate,  fire-pot,  and  door- way. 


draftsman’s  manual. 


11 


The  usual  dimensions  needed  for  these  furnaces  are  from 
6 x G feel  to  8 x 8 feet.  When  steam  is  the  heating 
agent,  make  the  brickwork  slightly  oblong,  and  omit  the 
central  circular  fire -pot,  etc.  In  actual  plans  sometimes  it 
serves  a purpose  to  mark  the  location  of  the  hot-air  flues,  as 
they  radiate  from  the  crown  of  the  furnace. 

Fig.  21. — Here  is  shown  an  end  or  side  of  a bath-room, 
some  eight  feet  or  nine  in  length,  accommodating  a bath-tub 
and  seat.  The  two  are  usually  in  close  juxtaposition,  as  the 


G===i 


Fig.  21. 

waste  pipe  of  the  bath-tub  discharges  into  the  soil-pipe,  and 
the  nearer  it  is  the  less  costly  is  the  plumbing.  The  tub  is  of 
the  dimensions  usually  of  2 feet  8 inches  wide  by  6 feet  long. 
A seat  may  be  20  inches  wide  by  28  inches  long. 

Fig.  22  is  a corner  wash-stand,  piped  for  hot  and  cold 
water,  and  placed  in  locations  where  there  is  no  room  to 
spare.  Bath-rooms  are  usually  supplied  with  either  one  form 
or  another  of  wash-basin  ; though  if  there  are  others  in  the 
chambers,  one  in  the  bath-room  is  not  so  necessary. 


Fig.  22.  Fig.  23. 

Fig.  23  is  a variation  in  form  from  the  preceding  one,  and 
is  used  where  there  is  plenty  of  room.  It  is  a set  wash-basin 
attached  to  the  wall  by  one  side  only,  and  is  a little  more 
costly  than  the  corner  style  shown  above. 

Fig.  24  is  the  form  usually  given  to  a sink  and  surrounding 
shelf.  Where  there  is  a cistern  to  draw  from,  a pump  is 
rightly  placed  as  shown.  A handy  adjunct  on  the  left  is  a 
drainer,  a cross-barred  grating  above  a slanting  surface, 
draining  whatever  drips  from  or  upon  it  into  the  sink.  It  is 


12 


DRAFTSMAN  S MANUAL. 


now  more  generally  not  cased  up  underneath,  as  continual 
moisture  and  darkness  caused  rot  and  allowed  unseen  dirt. 
Open  under  it  is  easily  kept  clean. 

Fig.  25  illustrates  the  top  of  a set  of  three  tubs,  as  they  are 
put  into  kitchens  and  laundries.  The  dotted  lines  show  the 
shape  inside,  shelving  forward  and  under.  Each  tub  has  a 
lid  of  its  own.  The  size  of  each  tub  ought  to  approximate  22 
inches  wide  by  28  inches  long,  measured  inside.  The  depth 
may  be  sixteen  inches.  The  plumbing  consists  in  a hot  and 


Fig.  24.  Fig.  25. 


cold  water  faucet  for  each  tub,  where  there  is  a boiler  con- 
nected with  the  range — only  cold,  when  no  boiler — and  a 
waste-pipe,  plug  and  chain,  all  of  brass.  These  pipes  should 
not  be  put  in  cold  situations,  and  the  tubs  should  be  set  on  legs 
up  from  the  floor,  so  it  can  be  scrubbed.  The  tubs  are  made  of 
two-incli  white  pine  clear  plank,  dadoed,  and  the  joints  fitted 
accurately  and  painted  with  thick  white-lead  before  put 
together. 

Fig.  26  shows  the  construction  of  a cupboard.  The  shaded 
parts  are  the  inclosing  sides  and  the  supporting  partitions. 
The  shelves  run  through,  and  are  about  a foot  wide.  The 


Fig.  27. 

upper  doors  are  panelled  either  in  wood  or  glass.  Under  the 
broad  shelf  are  drawers,  or  a larger  cupboard.  These  are 
built  in  pantries,  store-rooms,  and  kitchens. 

Fig,  27  represents  a cistern  tank.  Such  are  usually  put  in 
upper  stories,  and,  supplied  by  either  a force-pump  or  rain- 
water from  the  roof,  form  the  source  whence  the  boiler  and 
the  other  outlets  are  fed.  It  is  made,  like  the  tubs,  of  heavy 
plank,  size  about  8x4x2  feet,  the  ends  projecting  and 
clamped  by  iron  rods. 


draftsman’s  manual. 


13 


Fig.  28. — This  cut  shows  the  lower  end  of  a flight  of  stairs. 
The  narrow  double  lines  are  the  wall — the  last  three  steps  are 
bowed  out.  On  the  side  opposite  the  wall  stands  the  newel, 
to  which  is  attached  the  rail,  which 
in  turn  is  supported  by  balusters. 

The  turning  out  at  the  foot  of  the 
rail  as  it  meets  the  newel  is  usual 
where  there  is  room,  but  in  a nar- 
row hall  there  would  be  only  a 
straight  line  on  the  face  string. 

The  lines  from  rail  to  wall  string  are  the  faces  of  the  risers, 
and  in  the  upper  steps  are  only  dotted  in,  so  that  any  con- 
structions under  the  stairs  may  be  shown  in  full  black  lines. 

Fig.  29  shows  the  manner  of  representing  gas  chandeliers. 
The  left,  hand  one  is  a four-light,  the  next  three  light,  the 
next  two-light,  the  next  a hall  drop-light,  and  the  next  a 


Fig.  28. 


o$-o 
o 

Fig.  29. 

single  bracket  projecting  from  the  wall.  In  place  of  the  large 
circles,  sometimes  little  stars  are  made  for  a flame.  The  cir- 
cles stand  for  the  globes. 

Fig.  30  illustrates  the  manner  of  putting  a niche  in  a corner 
— at  the  upper  end  of  a staircase,  for  instance.  It  has  gen- 
erally a rule-joint  edge,  or  a bead,  and  the  slab,  of  marble, 
at  the  bottom  is  made  to  project  enough  to  receive  it,  with  a 
good  finish. 


0*0  o 


.2. 


Fig.  31  is  a niche  in  a square  corner,  such  as  in  apartments 
or  the  end  of  halls  opposite  the  stairs.  It  maybe  finished 
like  the  other,  and  also  with  a marble  slab  at  the  bottom. 

Fig.  32  gives  a representation  of  a common  form  of  tiled 
hall  or  vestibule,  the  projections  seen  at  top  and  bottom  being 


14 


DRAFTSMANS  MANUAL. 


at  the  sills  of  the  double  doors.  These  sills  ought  to  be 
marble  or  slate ; then  a course  of  chocolate-colored  plain 
tiles  and  other  brighter -colored  ones  making  a pattern  towards 
the  centre.  Borders  should  be  in  plain,  solid  colors,  no  matter 
how  lively  the  pattern  in  the  centre  may  be. 

Fig.  33  — We  show  here  the  same  shape  of  vestibule  covered 
with  a marquetry  floor,  of  vari-colored  woods — black  walnut, 
mahogany,  tulip,  cherry,  etc.  In  a hall- way  the  border  runs 
around  the  stairs,  so  that  the  pattern  is  at  all  points  inclosed 
in  a border. 

Fig.  34. — Here  is  represented  an  example  in  the  framing 
plans  of  floors,  etc/  When  a chimney  or  other  opening 
through  a floor  is  made  necessary,  double  the  beams  on  each 
side,  and  put  across,  securely  mortised  and  tenoned,  a header 
of  the  same  section  as  the  doubled  trimmers.  The  shaded 
parts  stand  for  a brick  wall  and  chimney.  If  the  opening  is 
a stairway,  trap -door,  or  for  flues  or  pipes,  domes  or  sky- 


Fig.  33.  Fig.  34.  Fig.  35. 


lights,  the  method  is  the  same  ; but  the  timbers,  unless  di- 
rectly supported  from  below,  must  be  carefully  proportioned 
to  bear  the  weight,  cutting,  etc. 

Fig.  35. — In  stores,  banks,  etc.,  are  often  constructed  fire- 
proof vaults,  of  no  remarkable  size  perhaps,  but  of  great  use 
and  importance,  and  at  a cost  not  exceeding  a good  safe, 
though  providing  much  better  and  roomier  space.  Build  on 
a solid  or  nearly  solid  foundation  two  eight-inch  walls,  with 
an  air  space  between  them  of  from  two  to  four  inches,  and 
the  tying  brick  irregularly  but  frequently  interspersed.  The 
corners  should  be  solid,  as  shown,  and  so  also  the  door 
jambs.  The  doors  and  frames  are  made  b}r  iron- workers, 
and  are  set  up,  plumbed,  and  built  in  as  the  work  proceeds. 
The  floor  may  be  tiled,  or  bricked  and  cemented.  The  mor- 
tar should  be  one  quarter  cement.  When  the  requisite 
height  has  been  reached,  the  roof  may  be  made  in  several 
different  ways,  either  arched,  with  tic-rods  buried  in  the 


draftsman’s  manual. 


15 


material,  or  with  iron  beams  stretched  across  the  shortest  di- 
ameter, and  brick  laid  in  mortar  between,  for  a foot  in  depth. 
Then  plaster  the  sides  as  on  any  room  wall.  The  vault,  if  in 
a high  story,  may  be  made  with  a second  one  on  top,  or  in  a 
large  office  building,  carried  up  through,  giving  a vault  on 
each  floor. 

Fig.  36. — In  this  figure  we  give  one  of  the  commonest  forms 
of  store  fronts.  The  girder  carrying  the  front  wall  of  the 
superstructure  is  supported  by  the  two  iron  columns  to- 


Fig.  33.  Fig.  37. 


wards  the  centre.  Doors  recessed,  and  in  front  of  them  a 
vault  light  in  the  floor  (see  Figs.  38  and  39).  Variations  of 
this  form  are  to  bring  the  show-windows  forward  like  bay- 
windows,  or  to  have  the  jamb  or  narrow  side-lights  at  a dif- 
ferent angle  from  the  right  angle.  When  the  girder  above  is 
a compound  cast  and  wrought  segment,  there  need  be  no 
columns  in  the  front  at  all,  and  the  doors  and  show-windows 
may  be  altered  at  any  time  without  disturbing  the  girder  and 
front  of  building  above. 


Fig.  38.  Fig.  39.  Fig.  40. 

Fig.  37  is  a representation  of  a smaller  or  narrower  front 
than  the  preceding.  Here,  after  the  necessary  width  for  the 
doors  is  taken  out,  all  the  rest  should  be  given  to  the  show- 
window.  If  more  symmetry  is  desired,  place  the  column  in 
the  centre,  and  slant  the  jamb  light  to  the  door  frame.  A 
vault  light  is  placed  in  front  of  the  doors.  The  shaded  parts 
are  brick  walls. 

Fig  38  shows  a vault  or  floor  light,  used  to  light  cellars, 
etc.,  a.  I placed  in  the  floors  of  stores  to  transmit  the  light 


16 


DRAFTSMAN'S  MANUAL. 


below.  It  is  made  of  a cast-iron  frame  with  cross  bars,  re- 
bated, and  the  squares  of  glass  are  from  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  to  one  and  a quarter  inch  thick,  joined  accurately  at  the 
top  edges,  and  set  in  cement  or  putty,  so  that  they  are  water- 
tight. Any  number  of  frames  can  be  joined  together  to  make 
a large  light  space,  but  a single  frame  is  not  usually  larger 
than  3 x 4 feet. 

Fig.  39. — This  vault  light  is  for  outside  use,  in  side-walks, 
in  that  portion  next  to  -the  house  or  store,  and  consists  of  a 
cast-iron  frame  as  before,  but  instead  of  the  cross-bars  small 
holes  two  and  a half  inches  diameter  are  left,  into  which 
are  cemented  bull’s  eyes  of  glass,  the  whole  of  the  joints 
afterwards  made  tight  by  painting  with  tar.  Round  vault 
lights  of  the  same  description  are  made  to  set  in  the  sidewalk, 
to  light  large  vaults  built  under  it. 

Fig.  40. — This  cut  shows  the  construction  of  a wooden 
washing  floor  in  a stable,  or  more  properly,  carriage  house. 
The  top,  level  with  the  surrounding  plank  floor,  is  formed  of 


C 


Fig.  41. 

stout  bars  of  wood,  two  inches  square,  properly  supported, 
and  about  two  inches  apart.  The  diagonal  diameters  are  tim- 
bers, rebated  to  receive  a planking,  and  inclined  four  to  six 
inches  toward  the  centre  to  form  a drip  converging  into  the 
waste-pipe  there  placed.  A washing  floor  can  be  constructed 
in  other  materials,  stone  or  brick,  on  the  same  principle,  by 
making  the  inclination  less,  say  two  inches,  and  omitting  the 
grating.  A screener  should  be  placed  over  the  waste  to  keep 
the  pipe  from  being  clogged  by  straws,  chips,  etc. 

Fig.  41  shows  how  to  draw  pews  in  a church.  The  dis- 
tance from  back  to  back  varies  according  to  the  number  de- 
sired to  accommodate.  For  instance,  if  at  three  feet  apart  (a 
room}'  dimension),  a certain  number  can  be  seated,  and  more 
are  desired,  place  them  two  feet  ten  inches,  and  a score  or 
two  will  be  added  to  the  seating  capacity. 

Fig.  42  is  a mode  of  drawing  desks  and  seats  in  school- 
rooms. Some  desks  are  only  single.  Aisles  between  every 


o o 


Fig.  42. 


draftsman's  manual. 


17 


desk,  from  24  to  36  inches  wide.  Some  desks  have  seats  com- 
bined in  front,  but  separate  seats  are  more  desirable. 

Stucco  cornices,  in  angles  between  ceiling  and  wall,  are 
sometimes  shown  on  plans  by  a dotted  line  around  the  walls 
of  the  room.  These  cornices  must  follow  every  break  in  the 
walls,  and  are  drawn  the  required  width  on  the  scale,  and 
have  figures  on  them  to  mark  the  vertical  dimension.  Centre- 
pieces, also,  are  lightly  dotted  in,  to  show  the  shape,  whether 
round,  oval,  or  lozenge.  Some  attics  or  French  roof  stories 
have  the  roof -side  walls  furred  vertical,  leaving  an  air  space 
next  to  the  roof.  This  is  shown  on  plans  by  a thin  partition, 
drawn  some  distance  inside  of  the  walls,  as  much  as  is  neces- 
sary to  give  the  vertical  wall  the  desired  height. 

On  plans  for  churches,  stores,  schools,  and  other  buildings 
devoted  to  special  uses,  there  are  many  more  kinds  of  repre- 
sentations. The  doors,  for  public  use,  in  buildings  where 
there  are  numbers  congregated  together  should  be  hung  so 
as  to  swing  outward. 

GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  PLANNING. 

The  first  plan  generally  drawn  is  the  most  important  one — be 
it  the  first  or  second  floor,  and  regard  must  be  constantly  had 
in  the  mind  as  to  what  goes  above  and  below  it.  The  manner 
of  roofing  particularly  must  be  consulted  at  every  angle,  in 
order  that  the  gables  shall  not  all  be  different  widths  and 
heights,  or  of  diverse  pitch. 

So,  too,  the  location  of  windows  and  doors  must  be  deter- 
mined with  reference  to  the  building,  as  a whole,  conceived 
in  the  mind,  rather  than  the  apparent  wants  of  the  first  floor 
only.  So  if  windows  are  properly  placed  in  the  stories  be- 
low, the  designer  when  he  comes  to  the  elevations  will  rarely 
be  troubled  with  the  vexation  of  finding  that  a raking  cornice 
cuts  his  intended  dormer  in  two,  or  his  roof  so  crowded  with 
gables  and  gablets,  hips  and  valleys,  as  to  make  it  an  expen- 
sive affair  to  construct  and  keep  tight. 

There  are  empirical  rules  for  regulating  the  size  of  win- 
dows so  as  to  admit  the  supply  of  light  necessary  to  fully' 
satisfy  the  requirements  of  the  room,  but  as  that  calculation 
is  rarely  necessary,  except  in  the  larger  structures,  such  as 
exchanges,  churches,  schools,  etc. , I will  only  say  here  that 
common-sense  should  teach  any  clear-headed  designer  of  or- 
dinary dwellings  the  number  and  size  ©£  the  windows  neces- 


18 


DRAFTSMANS  MANUAL. 


sary  to  light  the  rooms  and  halls  in  his  plan.  Usually  win- 
dows in  each  story  are  of  uniform  height,  if  not  width  ; but 
that  is  not  absolutely  necessary.  Pantries,  closets,  bath- 
rooms, dressing-rooms,  stair-lialls,  and  attics  may  all  have 
windows  differing  in  shape  and  size  from  the  rest  in  each 
story,  and,  judiciously  combined  with  the  other  features  of 
the  elevation,  they  add  to  its  appearance,  and  indicate  their 
uses.  The  designer  cannot  expend  too  much  thought  upon 
the  number  and  position  of  his  windows  and  doors  with  ref- 
erence to  the  size  of  the  room,  what  it  is  to  be  used  for,  and 
the  pieces  of  furniture  it  is  to  contain. 

It  may  seem  superfluous  to  speak  of  such  an  obvious  duty, 
but  it  is  one  nevertheless  which  is  but  too  often  slackly  per- 
formed, and  the  result  is  a bad-looking,  inconvenient  set  of 
rooms.  A parlor  should  always  have  one,  if  not  two  places 
where  a piano  could  be  placed  against  a wall  far  from  the 
sources  of  heat.  A sideboard  should  be  thoughtfully  pro- 
vided for  in  a dining-room,  a large  table  in  a kitchen,  and 
one  place  certainly,  better  two,  for  a bed  in  every  chamber. 
Also  gas  brackets  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  light  a dressing- 
case,  even  when  it  is  in  a good  position  for  receiving  daylight. 

In  planning  a first  floor  it  is  desirable,  if  it  can  be  done,  to 
face  the  house  at  one  of  the  four  midway  points  of  the  com- 
pass, such  as  north-east,  north-west,  south-east,  or  south-west. 
Thus  all  the  rooms  are  sure,  at  some  portion  of  the  day,  to 
receive  sunlight,  more  or  less.  Where  such  a position  for  the 
house  is  impossible,  try  and  make  the  dining-room  face  the 
eastward,  or  have  some  windows  letting  in  east  light,  or  if  the 
house  is  a large  one,  the  breakfast-room  might  be  so  placed, 
and  the  dining-room  be  on  the  west.  A sitting-ro6m  is  pleas- 
ant if  it  faces  the  south.  A kitchen  may  face  the  north,  as 
from  its  heated  condition  it  protects  the  rest  of  the  house 
from  the  cold  of  that  quarter. 

In  general  the  living  rooms  should  be  so  situated  as  to  re- 
ceive the  sun.  Water-pipes  to  set-bowls,  bath-tubs,  wash- 
tubs,  sinks,  and  tanks  should  be  run  in  sheltered  situations, 
care  being  taken  to  put  them  next  to  chimneys,  or  in  interior 
partitions,  never  on  outside  walls,  unless  carefully  protected 
and  boxed. 

Whatever  the  direction  in  which  the  rooms  may  be  made 
to  face  (which  with  most  houses  is  not  a mooted  point),  the 
interior  arrangement  of  them  is  more  amenable  to  circum- 
stances. It  is  desirable  to  have  the  entrance  so  placed  as  to 


DRAFTSMANS  MANUAL. 


19 


be  readily  discernible  from  the  outside,  sheltered  by  a porch, 
or  else  a vestibule  with  its  outer  and  inner  set  of  doors. 

The  hall  to  which  these  doors  give  access  should  be  roomy 
near  them,  and  the  stairs,  if  possible,  placed  in  a subordinate 
passage.  Folding  or  sliding  doors  to  the  parlor  from  such  a 
hall  are  suitable,  but  if  the  stairs  are  necessarily  put  near  the 
front  door  it  is  sometimes  possible  to  start  them  at  the  rear 
end  of  the  hall,  and  give  the  run  forward,  cutting  off  the  last 
three  or  four  upper  steps  by  an  arch,  thus  making  a clear 
space  near  the  front  door. 

But  often  the  old  arrangement  is  best,  especially  where  the 
front  stairs  are  the  only  ones  in  a house,  and  a cellar  flight 
must  be  under  them  ; though  even  then  a wide  close  flight 
might  lead  from  a small  hall  near  the  front  door  and  answer 
all  purposes. 

It  is  generally  wished  that  the  front  door  may  be  attended 
to  by  the  servant  without  necessitating  a passing  through  a 
room,  as  the  dining  or  sitting  room  ; but  in  contracted  cases, 
either  in  lot  or  purse,  that  cannot  always  be  accomplished. 

The  back  parlor,  or  sitting-room,  library  and  chamber,  if 
there  is  one  on  the  first  floor,  should  open  from  a hall,  either 
front  or  rear.  A chamber  may  open  from  the  sitting-room, 
but  it  is  not  to  be  desired,  as  the  utmost  ease  of  access  with 
possible  privacy  should  be  sought  after,  -with  all  approaches 
to  bedrooms.  Such  is  always  best  attained  by  a hall. 

The  pantries  and  china  closets  should  be  so  situated  that 
they  are  on  the  coldest  side  of  the  house,  or  between  the 
kitchen  and  dining-room,  so  as  to  shut  off  the  odors  of  cook- 
ing. A laundry,  if  only  little  more  than  large  enough  to  hold 
the  tubs,  is  very  desirable,  to  take  Monday's  slop  out  of  the 
kitchen,  and  should  open  from  that  room.  * 

GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  EXTERIORS. 

Coal  and  wood  sheds  are  now  nearly  obsolete,  and  those 
materials  are  stored  in  the  cellar,  access  to  which  ought  to  be 
convenient  under  the  back  stairs— the  door  to  the  cellar  open- 
ing out  of  the  kitchen,  or  from  a passage  but  a step  or  so  fur- 
ther. But  sometimes  a small  shed  may  be  inclosed  from  part 
of  a veranda,  running  alongside  of  the  kitchen,  and  the  house 
be  no  worse  in  looks  for  it. 

Verandas  should  be  on  the  sunny  sides  of  a house,  and 
should  not  be  too  freely  used  unless  the  climate  is  one  which 

*&®e  Appendix  B. 


20 


draftsman’s  manual. 


demands  their  use.  Bay-windows  are  generally  good 
features,  if  not  too  numerous.  They  may  best  be  used  to 
catch  a desired  view,  or  to  enlarge  a small  room  ; unless  quite 
large  they  should  not  extend  above  the  first  floor.  The 
shapes  vary,  but  it  is  more  dignified  not  to  use  many,  or  more 
than  two,  forms  on  the  same  house.  One  form  of  bay  has 
been  illustrated,  and  is  a very  good  one  for  general  use. 
Then  there  are  bays  of  a square-angled  form,  and  those 
whose  sides  are  at  an  angle  of  45°,  having  the  three  sides 
equal,  or  the  second  side  the  longest.  Bays  of  a V shape  are 
capricious,  and  do  not  contain  much  room,  and  those  of  a 
segment  or  semicircular  form  are  good  looking,  but  are  apt 
to  be  expensive  in  execution. 

There  are  various  ways  of  finishing  their  roofs,  but  the 
most  usual  way  is  to  make  it  similar  to  the  veranda  roofs  near 

by- 

Interiorly  the  opening  into  the  bay  is  usually  arched,  or 
with  a straight  lintel,  supported  by  corbels  ; but,  if  the  ceil- 
ing of  the  bay  is  on  the  same  level  as  that  of  the  room,  there 
is  no  need  of  an  a,rch,  but  the  cornice  of  the  room  may,  if  not 
too  large,  be  run  into  the  bay,  and  around  its  angles. 

The  chief  reasons  for  having  a dividing  line  at  the  ceiling 
between  the  bay  and  the  room  are,  the  difference  in  level 
sometimes,  and  the  difficulty  of  taking  a large  cornice  into  a 
bay  much  too  small  for  it.  The  bay,  if  separated  from  the 
room  by  an  arch,  should  always  be  corniced  with  a small 
pattern. 

Oriel  windows  are  bays  on  upper  stories,  and  usually  pro- 
ject from  the  walls,  supported  by  brackets,  trusses,  or  con- 
soles ; and  the  same  remarks  will  apply  to  them  as  were  writ- 
ten about  bays,  except  that  they  are  more  rarely  used,  on  ac- 
count of  a rather  unwieldy  appearance  and  difficulty  of  man- 
agement, except  on  large  constructions. 

When  designing  gables,  it  is  necessary  to  observe  caution 
in  their  disposal,  so  as  not  to  have  two  immediately  together  ; 
for  the  old-fashioned  wi  roof  is  no  longer  considered  stylish, 
and  never  was  beautiful.  Gables  may  vary  slightly  in  their 
pitch  from  each  other,  as  a little  difference  is  not  readily  no- 
ticed ; but  too  much  contrast  is  to  be  avoided,  if  the  dwelling 
is  desired  to  have  a finished,  well-studied  effect.  Gables  and 
ridges  should  have  the  same  heights,  or  pretty  considerable 
difference  the  one  from  the  other — that  is,  it  generally  looks 
better  to  have  a subordinate  gable  some  feet  lower  than 


DRAFTSMANS  MANUAL. 


21 


the  principal  one,  rather  than  to  come  within  a few  inches 
of  it. 

In  houses  with  a plan  approaching  a square,  it  will  often 
happen  that  there  will  be  a deck  at  the  junction  of  the  ridges 
of  the  gables,  if  they  are  of  equal  height ; and  where  a deck  is 
likely  to  occur,  the  gables  had  better  be  kept  at  a uniform 
width,  pitch,  and  height.  But  in  a very  long  plan  care  for 
the  above  is  not  so  necessary,  as  the  deck  is  unlikely  to  be 
formed. 

Pediments  are  mere  ornaments,  and  much  might  be  said  to 
prove  that  they  ought  not  to  be  used,  except  in  a very  moder- 
ate way,  on  cornices  where  the  roof  is  low-pitched.  In  the 
formal  classic  styles,  as  they  are  now  used,  under  the  rules  of 
the  Renaissance,  pediments  are  more  in  vogue  over  windows, 
doors,  pavilions,  etc.,  than  in  the  more  ordinary  designs  of 
every-day  practice. 

The  chimneys  should  be  so  located  on  the  plans  that  when 
they  are  topped  out  above  the  roof  they  will  not  be  over- 
shadowed by  any  part  of  it,  and  therefore  chimneys  generally 
should  not  be  placed  in  the  outside  walls  of  any  house  which 
has  a steep-pitched  roof.  A certain  boldness  of  style  may 
indeed  carry  off  well  the  tall,  spire-like  stack,  when  rising 
far  to  clear  an  impending  ridge ; but  the  boldness  must  not 
be  confined  to  the  one  part  only,  and  hence,  unless  the  whole 
design  is  treated  alike,  one  part  ought  not  to  have  such  undue 
prominence.  Besides,  there  is  danger  to  both  roof  and  chim- 
ney from  snows  and  storms.  A reason,  aside  from  those 
given  above,  why  chimneys  should  be  planned  on  inside 
walls,  is  that  one  stack  accommodates  more  rooms,  and  the 
heat  is  better  retained,  and  thus  the  house  is  economical  ; 
also,  the  design  is  rendered  more  symmetrical  by  having  the 
chimney-tops — the  highest  parts,  as  a rule — grouped  in  the 
centre. 

Towers  and  cupolas  are  of  individual  taste  and  preference. 
Some  clients  think  a couple  of  hundred  dollars  well  spent 
in  such  a finish,  no  matter  whether  either  tower  or  cupola  is 
ever  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  view,  or  whether  there  is  any 
view  to  try  and  see.  Common-sense  would,  it  seems  to  me, 
decide  at  once  whether  a tower  or  cupola,  aside  from  the 
cost,  were  necessary  to  a house  or  not. 

A word  about  gutters  in  main  cornices.  Of  course,  in  bay- 
windows,  porches,  and  small  protections  to  openings,  gutters 
must  be  used  to  some  extent,  but  in  main  cornices  it  would 


DRAFTSMAN'S  MANUAL. 


#2 

be  well  to  try  and  avoid  them  ; because,  at  least  in  climates 
inclement  during  half  the  year,  the  ice  forming  in  them  is 
apt  to  crack  and  tear  the  lining,  dam  up  the  opening  to  the 
conductor,  and  scale  the  paint  in  all  places  where  icicles 
form,  to  say  nothing  of  the  actual  danger  attending  the  fall- 
ing of  large  Classes  of  ice  in  melting  weather.  Leaks  in  gut- 
ters conduct  the  water  directly  to  the  interior  of  the  house, 
and  are  among  the  most  troublesome  of  the  annoyances  a roof 
can  inflict,  being  in  the  same  category  with  the  celebrated 
leaky  roof  of  the  Irishman,  whose  excuse  for  not  mending  it 
was  that  when  it  was  fine  it  didn’t  need  mending,  and  when 
it  rained  he  couldn’t. 

On  flat  and  deck  roofs  gutters  may  be  avoided  by  framing 
the  deck  exactly  like  a washing  floor,  in  a carriage  house,  be- 
fore described,  and  taking  the  conductor  down  near  a con- 
stantly used  chimney.  This  conductor  should  be  of  iron  or 
earthenware,  and  built  into  a jog  in  the  brickwork  of  the 
chimney.  Then  the  rush  of  water  will  make  no  noise,  and 
the  outlet  at  the  roof  will  never  be  frozen  up,  the  moist  air 
from  the  cellar  rising  through  it  keeping  off  the  formation  of 
ice  ; and,  last,  there  will  benoAcicles  forming  on  the  cornice. 
In  the  case  of  roofs  with  a pitch  they  should  be  so  planned 
that  the  slope  will  be  great  enough  to  slide  off  the  snow  before 
it  can  accumulate,  and  the  doors  in  the  first  floor  must  not 
be  in  the  sides  where  the  fall  would  be  ; or  else  in  the  cornice 
a gablet  may  be  used  over  the  door  to  divide  the  masses, 
so  as  to  shelter  the  place  where  the  door  is.  Low-pitched 
roofs,  and  some  of  greater  pitch  too,  are  provided  with  gut- 
ters put  on  a foot  or  so  above  the  crown  mould  supported  by 
small  braces.  A light  iron  railing  is  often  put  on  the  slope  of 
roofs,  in  the  same  position,  to  arrest  falling  masses  of  snow 
and  ice. 

DRAWING  THE  PLAN. 

The  foregoing  instructions  and  illustrations  as  to  the  parts 
of  a plan  being  borne  in  mind,  the  learner  may  now  essay  to 
draw  the  plan  of  a house.  For  the  first  we  will  suppose  an 
easy  plan — say,  three  rooms  on  each  floor.  The  house  to  be 
frame,  resting  on  a stone  foundation  ; the  main  part  gabled, 
and  also  the  rear  part,  but  lower.  The  cottage  is  to  be  for 
refined  occupants,  who  desire  front  and  rear  stairs,  large  pan- 
try and  china  closet  room,  rooms  of  liberal  size,  and  the  ex- 


draftsman’s  manual. 


23 


fcerior  plain,  neat,  but  in  keeping  with  the  scale  within 
doors. 

The  object  of  this  plan  is,  to  show  the  student  how  to  com- 
bine the  parts  of  plans  which  have  been  illustrated  before, 
so  we  will  suppose  a simple  cottage,  but  one  in  which  we  can 
show  most  of  the  parts  brought  together  as  the}"  naturally 
would  be.  Let  the  kitchen  be  on  the  north  side,  flanked  on 
the  west  by  the  laundry  and  pantries.  Dining-room  on  the 
west,  hall  in  centre,  and  parlor  on  the  east.  The  south  ex- 
posure protected  by  a veranda.  The  laundry  is  small,  as  be- 
fore spoken  of ; and  a passage  connects  dining-room  with 
kitchen  and  hall,  and  separates  it  from  both,  to  their  mani- 
fect  advantage.  Over  the  kitchen  is  a room  for  the  servant, 
furred  off  for  trunk  and  other  closets  at  the  sides,  and  reached 
by  a rear  stairs  as  well  as  by  a front  flight.  Over  the  other 
two  rooms  are  chambers,  spacious  and  of  good  height,  with 
closets.  A bath-room  is  in  the  rear  part,  handy  to  the  water 
supplies.  The  cellar  extends  under  the  whole  house,  and  is 
reached  from  the  outside  by  a flight  of  stone  steps,  and  from 
the  kitchen  by  a flight  under  the  rear  stairs.  From  the  copi 
ous  descriptions  hitherto  given,  the  parts  need  not  be  de- 
scribed here  in  detail,  but  it  is  sufficient  if  the  learner  recog- 
nize them  in  their  relative  positions. 

Points  to  be  remembered  in  laying  out  the  second  floor  plan 
are  : As  to  the  stairs,  to  be  sure  and  give  head  room  enough- 
six  feet  and  a half  to  eight  feet  is  the  range  of  the  require- 
ments ; get  bath-room  as  near  over  the  boiler  in  kitchen  as 
possible,  and  easy  of  access  from  hall  and  bedrooms  ; hall 
is  to  be  as  well-lighted  as  possible,  never  to  be  dark  in  day- 
time, even  with  all  doors  closed  ; chimneys  passing  through 
rooms  to  have  a flue  devoted  to  the  use  of  that  rqom,  and 
connected  with  it  by  a thimble  in  flue  ; cellar  windows  should 
be  double— that  is,  a swinging  sash  inside,  for  use  during  the 
mild  and  hot  months,  and  another  sash  in  the  rebate  on  the 
outside,  to  put  in  during  severe  weather. 

USING  THE  INSTRUMENTS. 

The  mere  drawing  of  the  lines  on  the  paper,  guided  by  the 
T square  and  triangles,  is  simple. 

Procure  a board,  with  straight  edges  and  square  corners, 
and  with  four  thumb  tacks,  secure  to  it  a sheet  of  paper, 
about  18  x 24  inches.  Holding  in  the  left  hand,  lightly  but 


24 


draftsman’s  manual. 


firmly,  the  stock,  or  cross-piece  of  the  T square,  as  it  rests  on 
the  board,  with  the  stock  on  and  up  to  the  left  edge  of  the 
board,  slide  it  to  or  from  you  according  to  the  position  of  the 
lines,  and  all  the  lateral  lines,  or  those  from  side  to  side, 
may  be  made.  For  the  vertical  ones  take  a triangle,  place 
one  side  on  the  top  edge  of  the  blade  of  the  square,  and  with 
the  fingers  of  the  left  hand  so  hold  the  triangle  that  the  verti- 
cal or  oblique  lines  may  be  made,  sliding  it  to  right  or  left  as 
needed,  and  never  forgetting  to  keep  the  lower  part  of  the 
palm  of  the  left  hand  on  the  blade  of  the  square,  always  ex- 
ercising a gentle  pressure  to  keep  the  stock  up  to  the  edge  of 


the  board,  so  that  the  square  and  triangles  will  be  sure  to 
work  true.  Circles  and  regular  curves  are  made  by  pencil 
compass  ; and  care  must  be  taken  by  him  who  would  become 
a neat  draftsman  not  to  press  the  point  in  too  hard,  and  to 
move  the  light  hand,  in  which  the  compass  is  held,  in  a 
slight  circle,  to  keep  the  pencil  point  touching  the  paper,  but 
not  too  hard,  lest  the  pencil  take  the  place  of  the  pivot  point, 
and  out  comes  the  point  and  scrape  goes  the  pencil,  to  the 
great  disgust  of  the  draftsman.  After  the  first-floor  plan  is 
delineated,  many  designers  proceed  to  draw  the  elevations. 
The  upper  floors  are  comparatively  easy,  and  so  is  the  cellar. 
Thus  the  same  process  with  square  and  triangle  is  with  them 
to  be  repeated — indeed,  these  two  instruments  are  in  constant 
action. 


DRAFTSMAN  S MANUAL. 


25 


DESIGNING  THE  ELEVATIONS. 

As  previously  directed,  the  style  of  the  roof  should  have 
been  studied  at  the  time  of  planning  the  first  floor,  so  that,  if 
a gable  roof  is  intsnded,  the  widths,  pitch,  and  consequent 
height  of  ridge  will  come  out  right. 

If  a level  cornice  hip  roof  or  a French  roof  be  designed,  the 
breaks  in  the  walls  may  be  less  carefully  arranged.  Follow- 
ing-our  intended  programme,  we  will  make  the  main  part 
with  a gable  roof,  running  from  side  to  side,  and  a gablet 
over  projection  in  centre.  The  rear  is  also  gabled,  but  lower 
than  the  main  part. 


Fix  a piece  of  paper,  as  before,  large  enough  to  take  the 
intended  design,  and,  leaving  room  enough  at  the  bottom  for 
lettering,  and  extending  the  cellar  walls  below  the  grade, 
draw  the  ground  line,  running  the  pencil  along  the  top  edge 
of  the  square  nearly  across  the  paper.  Then  determine  the 
height  above  the  ground  the  first  floor  is  to  be.  It  varies 
from  two  feet,  about  the  lowest,  to  four  feet,  except  in  pecu- 
liar circumstances,  when  it  must  be  placed  accordingly. 
Draw  another  line  at  this  point,  parallel  to  the  first.  Then  at 
the  side  or  margin  of  the  paper  draw  two  parallel  vertical 
lines,  using  the  triangle,  as  far  apart  as  the  thickness  of  the 


26 


DRAFTSMAN’S  MANUAL. 


projected  wall.  This  is  to  represent  a section  of  the  wall, 
and  the  floor  lines  must  be  run  from  it  just  far  enough  to 
show  what  they  are.  Next  determine  how  high  you  want  the 
first  and  second  stories,  and  mark  the  ceiling  of  the  first  story 
on  the  wall,  and  draw  the  line  out.  One  foot  above  this  line, 
mark  and  draw  out  another,  representing  the  top  of  the  sec- 
ond floor.  The  same  done  higher  up  on  the  wall  will  deter- 
mine the  height  of  the  second  story.  As  the  cottage  we  are 
drawing  has  no  third  story,  this  is  as  far  up  as  we  shall  go. 
Beginning  again  at  the  first  floor,  measure  down  from  its  un- 
der side  from  six  and  a half  to  seven  and  a half  feet,  jfnd 
draw  a line  there  parallel  with  the  other  floor  lines.  This  is 
the  top  of  the  cellar  floor. 


The  thickness  is  according  to  circumstances ; as  for  in- 
stance, if  of  brick,  laid  in  sand,  two  and  a half  inches  will  be 
the  distance  from  the  top  line  to  the  lower  one,  denoting  the 
thickness  of  the  floor.  If  of  broken  stone,  finished  with 
cement,  from  six  to  eight  inches  will  be  the  requisite  thick- 
ness. 

The  wall  shown  above  is  of  one  thickness  from  the  first 
floor  to  the  plate  ; below  the  first  floor  it  is  of  stone,  twenty 
or  twenty-four  inches  thick,  down  to  the  cellar  floor,  at  and 
under  which,  from  eight  to  sixteen  inches  thick,  it  widens  to 
a footing  course,  six  inches  wider  each  side  of  the  net  cellar 
walls. 

The  plate  is  the  bearing  beam,  at  the  top  of  the  wall,  where 


draftsman's  manual. 


27 


the  rafters  rest  ; and  its  height  above  or  below  the  ceiling  of  the 
.second  story  is  determined  solely  by  the  taste  of  the  designer  ; 
sometimes  forming  a broad  frieze,  and  having  the  cornice  high 
above  the  second  story  windows,  and  sometimes  bringing 
down  the  cornice  till  it  overhangs  and  shades  the  window 
heads,  or  they  are  broken  up  through  it.  This  design  shows 
a medium  height,  and  not  too  great  projection  of  rafters. 
The  pitch  of  the  rafters  too  is  a point  left  entirely  to  the  de- 
signer, though  circumstances  sometimes  point  out  whether  a 
roof  should  be  steep  or  low-pitched.  When  we  have  deter- 
mined these  points  on  our  marginal  sketch,  the  first  floor 
plan  is  placed  above  where  the  elevation  is  to  be  drawn,  and 
fastened  there,  with  the  front  downwards.  Then  draw  light 
lines  down  vertically  from  the  corners  and  openings,  or,  bet- 
ter, to  avoid  marking  up  the  paper  too  much,  place  the  stock 
of  the  square  at  the  bottom  edge  of  the  board,  with  the  tongue 
pointing  vertically,  instead  of  horizontally,  as  before  ; and, 
just  bringing  the  edge  right  or  left  to  the  point  desired  on  the 
plan,  make  a mark  on  the  sheet  where  the  elevation  is  to  be 
drawn — the  corner  lines  may  be  struck  up  long,  and  the  win- 
dow marks  shorter. 

Then  replace  the  square  so  as  to  work  it  on  the  left  side  of 
the  board,  and  draw  horizontal  lines  from  the  marginal  fig- 
ure, called  the  section — first  at  the  cornice,  giving  a line  for 
every  member  next  the  frieze,  and  then  below  that  for  the 
heads  and  sills  of  the  windows.  These  last  are  placed  on  the 
section  by  the  following  rules  : 

Sills  should  vary  from  twenty  to  thirty  inches  high  from 
the  floor,  and  the  heads  of  windows  should  be  a foot 
to  two  feet  from  the  ceilings.  Veranda  cornices  are  best 
placed  at  the  same  line  as  that  forming  the  top  of  the 
second  floor,  and  their  cornices  and  finish  under  in  small- 
er proportion,  but  resembling  the  main  cornice.  These  out- 
side features  being  so  much  more  variable  in  appearance, 
at  the  will  of  the  designer,  it  would  take  too  much  space  to 
illustrate  them  more  at  length  than  is  done  here,  nor  would 
it  be  profitable,  as  no  two  houses  are  ever  designed  alike. 
The  most  usual  division  of  lights  to  a sash  is  now  four  to  an 
opening,  or  two  lights  to  the  upper  and  two  to  the  lower 
sash.  A fine  appearance  is  gained  by  having  only  two  lights 
to  an  opening,  or  one  to  each  sash,  but  when  used  it  must  be 
in  an  appropriate  situation — not,  for  instance,  in  a thousand- 
dollur  cottage. 


28 


draftsman’s  manual. 


Plate  glass  must  always  be  used  in  as  large  lights  as  possi- 
ble, not  divided  as  sheet-glass  may  be. 

Front  doors  usually  have  figured  or  embossed  glass  in  the 
upper  panels.  If  there  are  two  sets  of  doors,  the  outside  set 
has  glass  in  the  small  top  panels,  and  the  inside  set  in  the 
long  upper  panels. 

It  will  readily  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  that  the  object  of 
these  pages  has  been  to  teach  or  show  the  learner  how  to  rep- 
resent on  paper  those  parts  of  the  plans  of  houses  which  do 
not  vary  much  ; the  same  could  not  be  done  with  external 
features,  as  they  vary,  not  only  with  every  designer,  but  in 
every  elevation  that  every  designer  makes.  With  practice 
will  come  facility  and  the  representation  of  many  things  not 
here  shown — original  perhaps  with  him  who  makes  them. 

As  for  the  elevations,  their  component  forms  are  much  less 
arbitrary  than  those  of  the  plans  ; hence  the  desirability — nay, 
the  necessity  rather  — of  leaving  the  further  discussion  of 
them  to  each  reader,  who  will  be,  it  is  hoped,  also  a student. 

TRACING  AND  INKING. 

These  operations  are  simply  mechanical,  but  require  a 
light,  steady  touch,  and  care  in  handling  the  instruments. 

After  drawing  in  pencil  some  time,  and  being  accustomed 
to  sliding  the  square  and  triangles  around  over  lines  just 
made,  it  requires  constant  thought  to  avoid  doing  the  same 
when  inking  over  on  the  same  paper  the  pencil  lines  which 
are  drawn  ; or  when  putting  the  ink  on  the  tracing-cloth, 
through  which  can  be  seen  the  pencil  or  ink  lines  on  the  paper 
underneath. 

Commence  operations  by  rubbing  up  the  ink.  Pure  water 
is  good,  and  so  is  vinegar.  Put  a small  quantity  in  the  well, 
in  the  end  of  the  ink  slab — not  two  thirds  full — and  taking 
the  stick  of  ink,  dip  it  in  the  liquid  every  three  or  four  rubs, 
until  it  is  perfectly  black.  That  point  can  be  readily  per- 
tained by  trying  it  with  a pen  on  white  paper.  When  dry  it 
will  show  if  black  enough. 

Fill  now  the  compass  pen,  and  after  wiping  off  the  super- 
fluous ink,  graduate  the  thickness  of  the  line,  and  make  first 
on  the  inking  or  tracing  all  circles  or  parts  of  circles.  Usually 
when  the  last  of  these  are  done  the  first  completed  are  dry. 
Always  commence  at  the  upper  edge,  that  farthest  from  you. 
When  done  with  any  inking  instrument  always  wipe  it 


draftsman’s  manual. 


2b 


thoroughly,  which  prevents  the  thick  ink  from  drying  on  it, 
and  rendering  it  unfit  for  a second  use,  until  it  is  cleaned  at 
cost  of  some  time  spent.  Then,  filling  the  ruling  pen,  move 
the  square  up  until  the  top  edge  coincides  with  the  highest 
horizontal  line,  and  carefully  draw  over  it,  spreading  the  ink 
as  you  go. 

The  pen  needs  to  be  held  upright,  both  nibs  touching  the 
paper  or  cloth.  Always  move  the  square  down/w?^  the  wet 
ink  lines,  remembering  that  if  the  square  touches  them  a 
brushy-looking  smudge  is  the  result,  hard  to  remedy. 

When  all  the  horizontal  lines  are  inked  and  dry,  then  the 
vertical  ones  may  be  attempted.  Take  a triangle,  place  it 
upon  the  top  edge  of  the  square,  hold  it  with  the  left  hand,  so 
the  vertical  edge  will  be  on  the  right.  Keep  the  square  stock 
up  to  the  edge  of  the  board  by  pressure  with  the  left  palm, 
and  draw  the  ink  lines  from  up,  down,  along  the  vertical 
edge  of  the  triangle.  With  lines  at  other  angles  the  process 
is  the  same,  always  keeping  the  square  as  a base  upon  which 
the  triangle  slides  up  to  the  edge  of  the  board.  Finish  by 
making  the  little  connecting  irregular  lines,  such  as  cornice 
profiles,  cut  work,  etc.,  with  a fine  writing  pen,  making  all 
joinings  neatly. 

This  completes  the  process  of  outlining.  A nicer  appear- 
ance is  given  to  both  plans  and  elevations  by  shading.  A 
heavy  line  is  placed  on  the  side  of  walls,  cupboards,  sinks, 
corner  boards,  window  and  door  frames,  eaves,  posts,  etc., 
opposite  to  that  from  which  the  light  is  supposed  to  come — 
presumedly  the  upper  left-hand  corner,  though  any  other 
point  might  as  well  be  taken.  Shading  and  graduated 
shadows  are  likewise  put  on  white  paper  drawings,  not  trac- 
ings, with  a brush  and  washes  of  India-ink. 

The  lightest  tints  are  put  on  first,  and  succeeding  darker 
ones  up  to  the  part  in  deepest  shade,  and  the  edge  of  each 
one,  while  yet  wet,  worked  off  to  blend  with  the  next  lighter, 
with  a clean  brush,  wet  in  clear  water.  A piece  of  blotting 
paper,  held  in  the  left  hand,  and  often  applied  to  the  spots  of 
color  left  where  the  brush  stops,  will  greatly  assist  in  preserv- 
ing an  even  tone.  The  shadows  on  rounded  objects  have  two 
lights,  one  high  light  on  the  side  of  the  direct  illumination, 
and  one  on  the  opposite  side,  lower  in  tone,  from  reflected  light. 

The  last  process  before  the  coloring  is  figuring  the 
scale  drawings.  Each  sheet  must  have  the  scale  marked 
jn  it,  and  in  addition  parts  where  care  must  be  exercised^ 


30 


DRAFTSMANS  manual. 


pretty  generally  all  the  parts — such  as  thickness  of  walls, 
sizes  of  doors,  sash,  posts,  studding,  joists,  distances  between 
floors,  etc.,  etc.,  are  carefully  figured. 

Plans  must  have  the  figures  giving  the  length  of  sides  to 
correspond  or  tally,  and  sections  must  give  height  of 
stories,  size  of  joists,  studding,  projection  of  rafters,  etc. 
There  cannot  be  too  much  figuring  done,  unless  the  plan 
would  become  confused  by  so  many  dimensions  being  placed 
upon  it.  It  is  safe  to  say,  give  all  the  important  ones  and  as 
many  of  the  minor  ones  as  possible.  Besides,  it  makes  the 
drawing  of  the  full-size  details  much  easier  and  more  reliable. 

In  coloring  both  paper  drawings  and  tracings  great  care  is 
necessary  to  get  the  volume  of  tint  even,  and  not  of  greater 
intensity  in  one  spot  than  another.  Use  a pretty  full  brush, 
and  stir  the  color  about  every  brushful  ; spread  the  brush 
so  as  to  fill  all  the  space  to  be  colored  if  possible,  and  where 
the  brush  leaves  off  blot  up  the  quantity  left  unspread  with  a 
clean  piece  of  blotting  paper.  When  about  to  color  inked 
drawings  on  paper,  be  sure  and  clean  it  off  thoroughly  before 
beginning,  and  use  fresh  made  ink  ; then  the  lines  will  not 
spread. 

THE  ARCHITECT. 

A PROFESSOR  OF  ARCHITECTURE.  OR  TIIE  ART  OF  BUILDING-. 

In  discussing  the  first  part  of  my  title,  I hope  to  make 
it  plain  who  can  and  who  ought  to  be  holders  of  the  above 
appellation  ; for  there  are  many  in  the  ranks  of  the  building 
trades  who  from  their  experience  and  knowledge  can  correct 
many  a one  called  architect  on  important  rules  of  practice. 
These,  if  they  would  study  proportion,  the  styles,  and  the 
history  of  architecture,  can  become,  truly  speaking,  archi- 
tects. And,  conversely,  there  are  many  who  write  “ Archi- 
tect ” after  their  names  who  know  nothing  but  how  to  make 
marks  on  paper  which  could  not  be  built,  or  to  copy  other 
men’s  work. 

These  ought  not  to  swell  the  lists  of  the  profession,  and 
would  be  better  employed  in  being  draftsmen  simply,  or  by 
going  to  work  at  tlie  practical  part  of  architecture,  “ the  art 
of  building,”  and  so  correcting  from  experience  their  former 
errors  of  ignorance. 

Those  who  ought  to  be  architects  are  born  with  more  or 
less  aptitude  for  kindred  occupations,  and  in  boyhood  are 


draftsman's  manual. 


1 


noted  for  constructive  ability  and  eany  liking  for  practising  the 
delineation  of  objects  of  mechanical  construction.  They  hang 
with  unabating  interest  about  buildings,  and,  as  soon  as  old 
enough,  if  wisely  guided,  will  learn  regularly  the  operative  car- 
pentry or  masonry  which  so  delights  them.  After  a few  years’ 
of  intelligent  labor,  and  while  still  young,  a course  of  drafts- 
manship in  an  architect’s  office  will  prepare  such  an  one  finally 
for  the  expression  of  his  conceptions,  and,  during  this  period, 
he  should  master  the  use  of  the  following  drawing  instruments  : 
rulers,  ordinary  and  parallel,  ruling  pen,  compasses,  with  pen 
and  pencil,  bow-sweeps,  as  well  as  the  construction  and  use  of 
simple  scales,  such  as  I,  2,  4 or  more  feet  to  the  inch,  showing 
inches  ; or  such  as  f , |,  f,  or  other  fraction  of  full  size, 

or  of  any  given  ^cale  or  drawing  ; and  the  meaning  of  such 
terms  as  plan,  elevation  (fron%  back,  or  side),  section,  or  sectional 
elevation. 

He  should  understand  the  object  bond  in  brick  work,  i.  e.t 
English  bond,  Flemish  bond,  or  English  bond  with  Flemish 
facing,  secret  bond,  and  how  it  is  attained  in  walls  up  to  three 
bricks  thick,  in  the  following  instances,  viz.:  footings 

with  off-sets,  angles  of  buildings,  connection  of  external  and 
internal  walls,  window  and  door  openings  with  reveals  and 
square  jambs,  external  gauged  arches  (camber,  segmental,  and 
semi-circular),  internal  discharging  arches  over  lintels,  and  in- 
verted arches. 

* He  should  know  where  to  put  wood,  bricks  or  plugging,  and 
their  use,  the  construction  and  uses  of  brick  corbe  ling,  and  the 
construction  of  trimmer- arches  in  fire-places. 

He  should  be  able  to  give  sections  and  e evations  to  scale,  of 
the  following  kinds  of  mason-work.  viz.,  uncoursed  and  coursed 
rubble,  block  in  course  and  ashlar,  with  their  bond,  a d the 
proper  dimensions  of  the  stones,  as  to  height,  width  of  beds, 
and  their  length,  and  of  the  following  dressings,  viz.:  window 
sills,  window  and  door  jambs,  plain  window  and  door  heads, 
door  steps,  string  courses,  quoins,  copings,  common  co  nices, 
blocking  courses  ; and  of  the  following  methods  of  connecting 
stones,  viz.:  by  cramps,  dowels,  joggles,  and  lead  plugs. 

1 He  should  be  able  to  show  how  to  join  timbers  by  halving, 
gapping,  notching,  cogging,  scarfing,  fishing,  and  mortise  and 
enon,  as  applied  to  wall  plates,  roof  timbers,  floors,  cei  ings, 
and  partitions. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw,  from  given  dimensions,  King  and 
Queen  post  roofs,  and  collar  beam  roofs,  also  laminated  beam 
curved,  and  the  combination  of  laminated  beam  and  Howe 
truss  girder  used  in  depots,  rinks,  and  exhibition  halls,  showing 
the  details  of  the  framing  and  iron  work. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw  from  given  dimensions,  single, 
double,  and  framed  floors,  with  or  without  ceilings  beneath 
them  ; showing  modes  of  supporting,  stiffening,  and  framing 


32 


DRAFTSMAN  S MANUAL. 


the  timbers  ; trimming  round  hearths  and  wells  of  stairs  ; also 
floor  coverings  of  boards  or  battens,  rebated  and  filleted, 
ploughed  and  tongued,  and  laid  close,  blind  nailed,  broken 
joints,  beveled  or  square  butt  joints. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw  in  elevation,  from  given  dimen- 
sions, a framed  partition  with  door  openings. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw,  in  elevation,  and  give  vertical 
and  horizontal  sections  of  solid  door  and  window  frames. 

He  should  be  able  to  describe,  by  drawings,  b adings  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  dove-tailing,  cro>s-grooving,  rebating,  plough 
grooving,  champering,  rounde  l nosings  and  housings. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw,  in  elevation,  and  give  vertical  and 
horizontal  sections  of  the  following  doors,  viz.:  ledged,  ledged 
and  braced,  framed  and  braced,  paneled,  battened,  and  the 
mode  of  putting  them  together,  position  of  hinges  and  furniture, 
as  well  as  to  describe  by  drawing,  the  following  terms,  as 
applied  to  paneled  doors^viz. : square  and  flat,  raised  panel, 
bead  and  butt,  bead  flush,  flush  moulded,  and  raised  moulded, 
all  on  one  or  both  sides. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw,  in  elevation,  and  to  give  vertical 
and  horizontal  sections  of  the  following  window  sashes  and 
frames,  viz. : single  or  double  hung  sashes,  with  square,  beveled 
or  moulded  bars  and  cased  frames  ; casement  sashes  hung  to 
solid  frames,  with  method  of  hanging  and  securing  in  each 
case. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw,  in  section  and  elevation,  the 
flashings  on  chimneys  and  parapets,  the  ridge  rolls,  and  hip  and 
yalley  flashings,  gutters,  cant  boards,  connections  with  leaders, 
and  flat  tinning. 

He  should  be  able  to  give  an  elevation  and  a section  of  the 
slating  of  a roof  laid  with  different  sized  slates,  on  boards  or 
battens,  and  show  the  best  methods  of  making  such  a roof 
weather  and  wind-tight. 

He  should  be  acquainted  with  the  proper  cross-section  for  cast 
and  wrought  iron  beams  for  use  in  positions  of  floor  beams,  or 
cantilevers,  and  coupled  or  tripled  by  boiling  together  through 
separators,  for  use  as  girders,  and  be  able  to  draw  such  a sec- 
tion in  its  right  proportions  from  given  data. 

He  should  be  able  to  draw,  in  elevation,  from  given  dimen- 
sions, and  skeleton  diagrams,  ordinary  iron  roofs,  up  to  40  feet 
span,  showing  the  sec  ions  of  different  parts,  and  methods  of 
connecting  them. 

He  should  also  be  able  to  make  and  explain  the  following : — 

1st.  Free-hand  sketches  explanatory  of  any  details  of  con- 
struction, such  as  the  joints  of  iron  and  wooden  structures,  and 
other  parts  requiring  illustration  on  a large  scale.  x 

2d.  The  nature  of  the  stresses  to  which  the  different  parts  of 
simple  structures  are  subjected,  as  follows  : 


draftsman’s  manual. 


33 


* In  the  case  of  beams,  fixed  at  one  end,  such  as  cantilevers, 
and  fixed  at  both  ends  or  supported  at  both  ends,  as  in  girders, 
the  student  should  know  which  side  of  the  beam  is  in  compres- 
ison  and  which  in  tension. 

He  should  also  be  acquainted  with  the  best  forms  for  struts, 
ties,  and  beams,  such  as  floor  joists,  exposed  to  transverse 
stress. 

He  should  know  the  difference  in  the  strength  of  a girder 
carrying  a given  load  at  its  centre  or  uniformly  distributed. 

In  the  ordinary  kinds  of  wooden  or  iron  roof  trusses,  and 
framed  s ructures  of  a similar  description,  he  should  be  able  to 
distinguish  members  in  compression  from  those  in  tension. 

3d.  The  nature,  application,  and  characteristic  peculiarities 
of  the  following  materials  in  ordinary  use  for  building  purposes, 
viz. : Bricks  of  different  kinds  in  common  use,  stones,  granite,  pure 
lime,  hydraulic  lime,  Portland,  Roman,  and  Rosendale  cement, 
mortars,  concretes,  grout,  asphalt,  timber  of  different  kinds  in 
common  use,  cast  and  wrought-iron. 

4th.  Constructive  details,  as  follows  : 

The  ordinary  methods  of  timbering  excavations,  such  as  for 
foundations  to  walls,  or  for  laying  down  sewers,  the  erection  of 
bricklayers’  and  masons’  scaffolding,  the  construction  of  trav- 
elers, the  use  of  piles  in  foundations,  hoop-iron  bond  in  brick- 
work, diagonal  and  herring-bone  courses  in  brickwork,  damp 
proof  courses,  bond  timber  in  walls  and  the  objections  to  it. 

He  should  know  how  bricks  are  laid  in  hollow  walls,  window 
and  door  openings  with  splayed  jambs,  flues,  chimneys,  fire- 
places, and  arches  up  to  about  20  feet  span,  how  mortar  joints 
are  finished  off,  and  the  thickness  usually  allotted  to  them,  why 
bricks  and  stones  ought  to  be  wetted  before  being  laid. 

He  should  be  acquainted  with  the  construction  of  brick 
ashlar  walls,  rubble  ashlar  walls,  stone  stairs,  wooden  stairs, 
both  dog-legged  and  open  newell,  skylights,  fire-proof  floors, 
such  as  brick  or  other  fire-proof  material  in  arched  form,  sup- 
ported, or  rolled,  or  cast-iron  girders  or  beams,  c rcular  and 
egg-shaped  drains,  roofs  of  iron  or  wood,  the  fixing  of  archi- 
traves, linings,  skirtings  and  wainscotings  to  walls,  shutters  to 
windows,  lath,  plaster,  and  battening  to  walls,  roof  coverings 
of  tiles,  slate,  and  zinc  or  lead,  and  slate  ridges  and  hips. 

He  must  possess  a complete  knowledge  of  building  materials, 
their  application,  strength,  and  how  to  judge  of  their  quality, 
and,  in  the  case  of  iron,  of  the  processes  of  manufacture,  and 
the  points  to  be  attended  to  in  order  to  insure  sound  castings 
and  good  rivetings. 

He  must  be  able  to  solve  simple  problems  in  the  theory  'of 
construction,  such  as  in  the  case  of  a beam  supported  at  both 
ends,  to  ascertain  the  proportion  of  the  load  transmitted  to  each 
point  of  support,  and  to  determine  the  safe  dimensions  of  iron 
or  wooden  beams  subjected  to  dead  loads. 


34 


draftsman’s  manual. 


In  ordinary  roof  trusses  and  framed  structures  of  a similar 
description,  he  must  be  able  to  trace  the  stresses,  brought  into 
action  by  the  load,  from  the  points  of  application  to  the  points  of 
support,  as  well  as  to  determine  the  nature  and  amount  of  the 
stresses  on  the  different  members  of  the  truss,  and  consequently 
the  quantity  of  material  required  in  each  part. 

In  ordinary  walls  and  retaining  walls,  he  must  be  able  to  as- 
certain the  conditions  necessary  to  stability,  independent  of  the 
strength  of  the  mortar. 

But,  when  others  pronounce  him  incomparable,  he  will  feel, 
looking  at  his  art  from  the  standpoint  he  has  attained,  that  he 
has  but  just  begun  to  be  equipped  for  his  life-work,  and  that  all 
too  soon  he  will  have  to  rest  when  all  he  would  desire  would  be 
to  practice  faithfully  what  he  had  spent  years  to  learn,  and 
assist  others  to  reach  his  position  with  less  expenditure  of 
time  and  trouble. 

For  those  who,  I presume,  are  a majority  of  my  readers, 
and  who  have  been  through  the  preliminary  stages  of  hand- 
work in  shop  or  shed  ; and  for  those  who,  still  younger,  are 
desirous  of  entering  the  offices  of  their  imagination  s great 
lights  in  the  profession,  I will  add  a short,  and,  I fear,  imperfect 
list,  of  works — illustrated  and  scientific — which,  well  studied, 
will  lead  them  on  to  desire  further  knowledge  ; and  thus  set, 
improving,  and  on  the  right  path,  it  rests  with  themselves  if 
they  succeed,  or  whether  they,  have  not  mistaken  their  hopes 
for  evidences  of  ability. 


VALUABLE  BOOKS  FOR  A STUDENT  OF 
ARCHITECTURE. 

Mitchell’s  “ Rudimentary  Manual  of  Architecture.” 

Professor  Babcock’s  “ Series  upon  Elementary  Architecture.’’ 
Riddell’s  “ Practical  Carpenter  and  Joiner.” 

Mitchell’s  “ Stepping  Stone  to  Architecture.” 

Monckton’s  “Carpenter  and  Joiner.” 

Gould’s  “ Carpenter’s  and  Builder’s  Assistant.” 

Plummer’s  “Carpenter’s  Guide.” 

Riddell’s  “ Lessons  on  Hand-Railing.” 

Monckton’s  “Stair  Builder.” 

Gould’s  “ American  Stair  Builder.” 

Burns’  “ Notes  on  Building  Construction.” 


draftsman’s  manual. 


35 


Gwilt’s  “ Encyclopedia  of  Archi  ecture.” 

R.  G.  Hatfield’s  ‘‘American  House  Carpenter.” 

R.  G.  Hatfield’s  “ Theory  of  Transverse  Strains.” 

Parker’s  “ Glossary  of  Architecture.” 

De  Volson  Wood’s  “Theory  and  Construction  of  Bridges 
and  Roofs.” 

Viollet  Le  Due’s  “ Discourses  on  Architecture.” 

A.  Rosengarten’ s “ Handbook  of  Architectural  Styles.” 

G.  G.  Zeriffi’s  “Manual  of  Art,  with  Special  Reference  to 
Architecture,  etc.” 

“Ventilation  of  Buildings.”  Butler. 

Leed’s  “ Treaties  on  Ventilation.” 

Saeltzer’s  “ Treatise  on  Acoustics.” 

Hallett’s  “ Specifications.” 

Eveleth’s  “ School-House  Architecture.” 

Gardner’s  “ Common-Sense  in  Church  Building.” 

Bicknell’s  “ School-House  and  Church  Architecture.” 
Palliser’s  “ Specifications.” 

Bicknell’s  “Builder’s  Contracts.” 

Bicknell’s  “ Detail  Cottage  and  Constructive  Architecture.” 
Bicknell’s  “ Cottage  and  Villa  Architecture.” 

“ Modern  Architectural  Designs  and  Details.” 

Powell’s  “Foundation  and  Foundation  Walls.” 

Withers’  “ Church  Architecture.” 

Ruskin’s  “ Seven  Lamps  of  Architecture.” 

Tuthill’s  “ Practical  Lessons  in  Architectural  Drawing.” 
Vogdes’  “ Architect’s  and  Builder’s  Pocket  Companion.” 

The  journals  of  current  events  of  interest  containing  reports 
and  papers  on  the  scientific  and  archaeological  points  studied  in 
the  profession,  and  also  enumerating  the  state  of  work  in  the 
United  States  and  Canadas,  with  cullings  from  the  European 
press,  are : 

The  American  Architect  and  Building  News . Weekly  and 
Monthly.  Published  in  Boston. 

Carpentry  and  Building.  Monthly.  New  York. 

Builder  and  Woodworker.  Monthly.  New  York. 

The  Manufacturer  and  Builder . Monthly.  New  York. 


36 


draftsman’s  manual. 


APPENDIX  A. 

Additional  Remarks  regarding  Draftsman's  Outfit . 

The  drawing-  board  should  be  perfectly  square  at  the  cor- 
ners and  true  on  the  edges,  made  from  i£  inch  stuff,  and  24  by 
36  inches  is  a good  size  for  most  necessary  drawings,  although  it 
wi  1 be  found  very  convenient,  in  practice,  to  have  a larger  one 
of  the  dimensions  32  by  48  inches.  It  should  be  of  well  sea- 
soned white  pine,  and  should  have  no  clamps  across  the  ends, 
because  even  the  best  seasoned  wood  will  swell  and  shrink  with 
the  change  from  dry  to  wet  weather,  and  if  the  clamps  project 
a hair’s  breadth  beyond  the  edge,  they  throw  the  tongue  of  the 
square  considerably  off  the  true  line.  The  clamps  should  be  of 
hard  wood,  about  1 by  inches,  screwed  to  the  board  the 
stiffest  way  of  the  section  of  the  clamp,  and  the  screws  should 
be  inserted  through  slots  i inch  long  instead  of  round  holes,  so 
the  swelling  and  shrinking  of  the  boards  will  be  accommodated 
instead  of  restrained. 

The  T squares  are  instruments  for  the  ruling  of  long  straight 
lines,  and  may  be  used  on  either  edge  of  the  board  for  horizon- 
tal lines,  or  at  the  top  and  bottom  for  vertical  ones.  They  are 
made  of  all  kinds  of  hard  wood,  some  with  both  edges  of  the 
tongue  parallel  and  some  that  are  very  long  or  required  to  be 
very  stiff  have  the  lower  edge  oblique,  sloping  from  the  stock  to 
the  point.  The  most  convenient  form  is  the  one  in  which  the 
tongue  is  planted  on  the  stock,  thus  allowing  a triangle  to  move 
freely  when  near  or  over  the  stock.  When  the  stock  or  head 
projects  up  as  much  as  it  dots  down , much  care  must  be  taken 
in  keeping  the  hypothenuse  of  the  triangle  on  the  right , or  it 
will  be  impossible  to  make  vertical  lines  close  to  the  head. 

Another  useful  form  of  square  is  the  bevel  in  which  the 
head  or  stock  is  movable  on  the  end  of  the  tongue,  on  a 
pivot  which  has  a large  milled  head  nut,  working  on  a screw,  so 
adjusted  that  the  head  can  be  made  to  take  any  angle  to  the 
tongue,  and  so  enabling,  by  the  usual  manipulation  of  the  in- 
strument, parallel  oblique  lines,  such  as  cornices  on  gables, 
pediments,  stairs,  and  rake  wainscoting  to^  be  drawn  with 
greater  ease  and  quickness  than  if  the  usual  form  of  square 
were  used,  and  a triangle.  A combination  of  these  two  squares 
has  the  head  split  so  that  one  side  can  be  used  as  a permanent 
square,  and  the  other  shifted  so  as  to  form  a bevel. 

The  triangles  are  of  various  sizes,  and  in  practice,  two  sets 
are  desirable,  one  a small  one,  preferably  of  black  rubber,  and 
thick  rather  than  thin,  as  they  will  not  be  so  likely  to  slip  dnder 
the  edge  of  the  tongue  of  the  square.  These  are  used  for 
drawing  small  drawings,  such  as  scale  plans,  elevations,  etc., 
where  a line  not  more  than  four  inches  long  is  likely  to  be 


draftsman’s  manual. 


37 


drawn.  But  for  larger  drawings,  a set  of  triangles,  the  sides 
of  which  are  1 2 and  14  inches  long,  are  indispensable.  For 
full  size  details,  even  larger  ones  are  convenient. 

The  thumb  tacks  are  made  like  common  tacks,  with  heads 
varying  from  the  size  of  an  old  fashioned  three  cent  piece  to  that 
of  a dime.  The  points  are  of  steel,  round,  and  screwed  into  the 
head,  in  the  best  kinds,  and  simply  riveted  in,  in  the  commoner 
kinds.  The  best  have  German  silver  heads,  and  the  common 
ones  bra~s.  They  are  used  to  fasten  temporary  drawing  sheets 
to  the  board,  and  are  pressed  in  with  the  thumb,  and  can  be 
easily  withdrawn  by  running  under  the  broad  head  a thin  knife- 
blade.  Finger-nails  are  good  for  the  purpose,  while  they  last, 
which  is  usually  not  long.  Pencils  can  be  obtained  of  various 
makes,  the  best  being  of  foreign  make,  called  the  Siberian, 
m^de  by  A.  W.  Faber.  The  3H  is  the  most  useful,  the  harder 
grades  only  coming  useful  in  extra  fine  work,  on  special  paper. 

Rubber  can  be  obtained  also  of  various  shapes,  sizes,  styles 
and  qualities,  but  the  best  is  A.  W.  Faber’s  Artist’s  Gum,  large 
cakes.  This  quality  works  best  on  all  grades  of  paper,  and  is 
neither  too  hard  nor  too  soft  for  ad  kinds  of  use. 

An  ink  slab  is  to  grind  the  India  i tk  on,  and  is  made  of 
either  earthenware,  slate,  or  ground  glass,  and  the  best  form  is 
a circular  shape,  dishing  toward  the  centre,  where  there  is  a 
deep  well  There  is  a cover,  and  ink  will  keep  in  usable  con- 
dition in  it  from  three  to  four  days. 

The  earthenware  color  saucers  come  in  a nest,  that  is  to  say, 
so  fitted  together  that  six  of  them  make  one  set.  with  lips  and 
ledges  so  that  they  sit  securely  i or  . pke  when  not  in  use. 
Other  saucers  are  all  open,  and  have  six  or  oir;e  inclined  divi- 
sions for  different  colored  water-colors. 

The  camel’s  hair  brushes  most  used  are  of  three  or  four  sizes, 
from  the  smallest,  about  as  large  as  the  lead  of  a lead  pencil, 
up  to  a fiat  brush  in  a handle  the  size  of  an  ordinary  pen-holder. 
These  are  used  to  lay  on  the  colors  red,  forb-ick,  yellow  for 
wood,  blue  for  stone  and  iron,  brown  for  black-walnut  and 
brown-stone,  etc.,  etc.,  and  after  use  should  always  be  rinsed 
clean,  and  well  dried. 

The  water-colors,  red,  yellow,  blue  and  brown,  may  be  sup- 
plemented by  as  many  more,  if  desired,  but  the  red  should  be 
carmine,  the  yellow,  ochre,  the  blue,  French  blue,  and  the 
brown,  Vandyke  brown.  Care  must  be  taken  to  wipe  the  end 
of  the  cake  dry  after  rubbing  the  color,  or  the  dampness  thus 
left  will  be  apt  to  permeate  the  cake  and  cause  it  to  crumble. 

The  India  ink  of  the  best  kind  will  give  the  most  satisfac  ory 
results,  but  there  is  a cho  ce  between  an  ink  that  dries  glossy, 
and  one  that  dries  a dead  black.  The  latter  is  the  most  pre- 
ferred, but  is  hard  to  secure.  The  same  care  in  keeping 
dry  must  be  exercised,  or  the  htick  will  crumble  to  unusable 
fragments. 


38 


draftsman’s  manual. 


APPENDIX  B. 

THE  PROPORTION  OF  ROOMS 

is  a question  that  has  often  been  discussed,  but,  as  far  as  I am 
aware,  has  never  been  definitely  settled,  and  prob  ibly  never 
will  be.  I think,  however,  that  the  relative  proportions  of  a 
large  room  wou  d be  quite  inappropriate  for  a sifiall  one.  For 
instance,  the  double  square,  which  might  do  for  a room  20  feet 
by  40  feet,  would,  on  the  other  hand,  be  very  inconvenient,  if 
made  10  feet  by  20  feet. 

Rooms  20  feet  by  40  feet  are  handsome  and  useful,  but  ro^ms 
formed  to  correspond  with  the  le  ser  figures  (10  feet  by  20  feet) 
are  not  of  a useful  shape.  It  is  therefore  necessary  to  devise  a 
kind  of  sliding  scale,  giving  more  squareness  to  small  rooms 
and  more  length  to  large  ones.  As  to  height,  we  leave  that  an 
open  question  ; some  would  make  them  a greater  height  than 
others,  according  to  the  uses  »o  which  they  are  to  be  put,  aside 
from  the  question  of  strict  proportion  on  the  one  hand,  and  of 
acoustic  perfection  on  the  other.  The  proportion  of  height 
should  generally  range  from  two-thirds  to  three-fourths  of  the 
width,  and  must  depend  on  whether  the  apartment  is  lighted 
from  the  end,  or  side,  or  ceiling.  Most  frequently  it  would  be 
from  one  end  and  one  side. 

The  sliding  scale  proposed  is  as  follows  : 

LENGTH.  BREADTH. 


50  feet.  0 . 0 ...  c ... « 0 . 

40 

36  “ 

30  4 ....  0 ...  0 .. . . 

30 

25 

. . 20 

feet. 
< < 

♦ < 

* « 

2C  “ _ 

" 6 inches. 

< t 

20  “ 

15 

18  “ 

' i 

is  “ • ............ 

12 

4 ‘ 6 inches. 

ll  “ 

II 

< « 

10  “ 

......... .IO 

> < 

The  principle  is  very  simple,  namely : that,  starting  with  a 
room  30  feet  by  20  feet,  we  add  or  subtract  2 feet  from  the 
length  for  every  1 foot  of  the  breadth.  Thus,  if  a room  is  in- 
tended to  be  22  feet  long  (that  is,  8 feet  less  than  the  30  feet), 
then  the  breadth  should  be  4 feet  less  than  the  20  feet,  or  16 
feet.  Any  one  can  carry  the  rule  in  his  memory  without  much 
difficulty,  simply  calling  to  mind  30  by  20  and  making  an  allow- 
ance of  2 feet  of  length  for  every  1 foot  of  breadth,  whether 
increasing  or  diminishing  in  size.  The  scale  above  given  is  of 
practical  dimen -ions  for  dining-rooms,  drawing-rooms,  very 
nearly  of  billiard-rooms,  and  as  it  descends,  of  other  apart- 
ments. Of  course,  no  one  would  be  so  absurd  as  to  advocate 
every  room  in  a house  being  strictly  to  such  a scale,  but  it  af- 
fords hints  of  proportions  which  would  generally  be  useful  and 
appropriate. 


CATALOGUE 


OF 

VALUABLE  BOOKS 


ON 

ARCHITECTURE, 

Carpentry  and  Building, 

PUBLISHED  AND  FOR  SALE  BY 

’WXXilliX-A.M:  T-  COMSTOCK, 
6 ASTOR  PLACE  NEW  YORK, 


wyAll  Books  in  this  Catalogue  sent  post-paid  on  receipt  of  price.  Circular  of 
Drawing  Instruments  on  application. 


40 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


JUST  PUBLISHED. 


A.n  Entirely  New  and  Original  J Fork, 


PRACTICAL  LESSONS 


Arcliteciml  Drating, 


How  to  make  the  Working  Draw- 
ings for  Buildings . 

44  pages  descriptive  letter  press,  illustrated  b.y  33  full  page 
plates  (one  in  colors),  and  33  woodcuts,  showing 
methods  of  construction  and  representation. 

The  work  embraces  Scale  Drawings  of  Plans,  Elevations,  Sec- 
tions and  Details  of  Frame,  Brick  and  Stone  Buildings,  with  fuF 
descriptions  and  a form  of  Specifications  adapted  to  the  same. 

Suited  to  the  wants  of  Architectural  Students,  Carpenters, 
Builders,  and  all  desirous  of  acquiring  a thorough  knowledge  of 
Architectural  Drawing  and  Construction. 

Contents. 

Chap.  I. — Introduction.  Chap.  II. — A Small  Frame  House. 
Chap.  III. — A Frame  Building.  Chap.  IV. — A Brick  Build- 
ing. Chap.  V. — A Stone  Building.  Chap.  VI. — The  Specifica- 
tions. Chap.  VII. — Color. 

By  WILLIAM  B.  TUTHILL,  A.M.,  Architect. 

One  large  8vo  volume,  oblong . Cloth. 

PRICE,  POST-PAID,  $2.50. 


6 ASTOK  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


41 


EDITORIAL  NOTICES 

—OF — 

Practical  Lessons  in  Architectural  Drawing 

William  T.  Comstock,  successor  to  Bicknell  & Comstock,  an- 
nounces a new  architectural  book,  which  deserves  special  notice. 

The  text  is  very  full,  and  embraces,  besides  the  description  of 
the  plans  and  drawings,  many  suggestions  and  directions  which 
architects  and  builders  will  find  of  great  use.  The  author  is  Mr. 
William  B.  Tuthill,  the  well-known  architect,  and  he  has  made 
the  most  complete  and  most  practical  book  for  students  and 
builders  ever  prepared  in  this  country.  It  will  be  published  in 
good  style  and  at  a price  which  will  place  it  within  the  means  of 
all  workmen  who  need  it. — 'The  American  Bookseller . 

The  work  is  designed  as  a guide  to  the  making  of  working 
drawings  and  specifications  for  buildings,  and  is  a valuable  and 
practical  aid  for  carpenters,  builders,  and  architectural  students. 
— The  Publishers  Weekly. 

By  kindness  of  the  publisher  we  have  been  enabled  to  examine 
a portion  of  the  advance  sheets  of  this  work,  and  so  much  of  it 
as  we  have  seen  is  of  a purely  practical  and  useful  kind,  and  such 
as  we  have  frequently  had  inquiries  for.  To  the  carpenter,  joiner, 
or  architectural  student  who  is  struggling  to  obtain  a knowledge 
of  architectural  drawing  and  construction  this  work  will  prove  of 
great  value.  The  book  is  entirely  new  and  original,  and  the 
'‘padding”  and  worn  out  matter  that  characterizes  most  of  our 
recent  architectural  publications  are  here  conspicuous  by  their 
absence. — The  Builder  and  Woodworker. 

We  have  been  favored  with  a number  of  advance  sheets  of  the 
above  work,  which  is  in  press  at  the  time  of  this  writing,  and 
find  it,  both  in  conception  and  execution,  worthy  of  unqualified 
praise.  The  material  embraced  in  this  volume,  if  we  may  judge 
from  careful  examination  of  the  sample  sheets  sent  us  pr  mises  to 
be  entirely  new  and  original,  and  not  the  mere  re-hash  of  a liter- 
ary hack,  which  is  too  often  the  cnaracteristic  of  so-called  “ prac- 
tical ” treatises  ; and  if  the  promising  evidences  of  the  specimen 
sheets  in  our  hands  are  borne  out  by  those  that  are  forthcoming, 
the  work  will  be  really  a most  useful  book  of  instruction.  In  the 
design  and  execution  of  the  volume,  it  has  been  the  author’s 
study  to  suit  the  wants  of  architectural  stud-nts,  carpenters, 
builders,  and  of  all  whose  pursuits  or  inclinations  might  make  the 
acquisition  of  a thorough  knowledge  of  architectural  drawing  and 
construction  necessary  or  desirable. — The  Manufacturer  and 
Builder . 

'I'he  work  is  admirably  described  in  its  title.  The  author  is  a 
practical  architect,  and  has  made  a practical  book  which  will  be 
of  great  assistance  to  carpenters,  budders  and  students,  contain- 
ing just  the  informat  on  they  most  need,  and  are  least  likely  to  find 
in  books.  The  plates  and  wood-cuts  are  remarkable  for  their 
thoroughness  and  clearness.  A more  thorough  volume  or  a more 
practical  one  for  architects  has  never  been  made. — The  United 
States  News  Dealer . 


42 


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JUST  PUBLISHED. 


MODERN  ARCHITECTURAL 


Designs  and  Details 


(Miniature  View.— Design  i,  Plate  i,  Modern  Architeg 
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shewing  new  and  original  designs  of  Dwellings  of  Moder- 
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and  other  modernized  styles , giving  Perspective  Views.  Floor 
and  Framing  Plans , Elevations . Sections , and  a great  variety 
of  miscellaneous  EXTERIOR  AND  INTERIOR  DETAILS 
of  Dwellings , Stores , Offices , etc.  Also , a number  of  designs  of 
Low  Priced  Cottages,  in  the  various  popular  styles , 
adapted  to  the  requirements  of  Seaside  and  Summer 
Resorts,  and 

Suburban  and  Country  Places, 

Comprising  drawings  by  prominent  architects  of  New  York , 
Boston ) and  other  localities  y as  well  as  other  designs  prepared 
expressly  for  this  work.  All  Elevations , Plans , and  Details 
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43 


JUST  UUBIjISHEID. 

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original  designs  of  Halls,  Staircases,  Parlors,  Libraries,  Dining, 
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and  Elaborate  Wood  Mantels,  Sideboards,  Furniture,  Wood  Ceil- 
ings.  Doors,  Door  and  Window  Trims,  Wainscots,  Bank,  Office, 
and  Store  Fittings,  in  Perspective,  Elevation  and  Detail,  making 
a valuable  series  of  Suggestions  for  Architects  and  Architectural 
Designers.  And  a large  collection  of  interior  details  suited  to  the 
requirements  of  carpenters,  builders  and  mechanics,  reproduced 
from  the  drawings  of  prominent  architects  of  New  York,  Boston, 
Chicago  and  other  cities.  With  an  Introduction,  Description  of 
Plates,  and  Notes  on  Wood  Finish  by  Wm.  B.  Tuthill,  A.  M., 
Architect,  author  of  “ Practical  Lessons  in  Architectural  Draw- 
ing.” One  large  quarto  vol.,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth. 

Price,  post-paid,  - - $7.50, 

Fot  description  of  plates  see  following  pages. 


44 


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RECENTLY  PUBLISHED. 


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— by — 

A.  W.  FULLER,  Architect. 

Containing  44  Plates  of  Queen  Anne  and  Colonial 
Style  Villas  and  Cottages,  costing  from  $700  up- 
wards. 

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4 


JUST  PUBLISHED. 


A,  New  and  Important  Work  of  especial 
interest  to  Architects 9 Builders, 
Painters  and  House  Owners • 


MODERN  HOUSE  PAINTING. 

Containing  twenty  colored  lithographic  plates,  exhibit- 
ing the  use  of  color  in  the  Exterior  and  Interior 
House  Painting,  and  embracing  examples  of  simple 
and  elaborate  work  in  plain,  graded,  and  parti- 
colors.  Also  the  treatment  of  old  styles  of  houses, 
together  with  full  descriptive  letter  press,  covering 
the  preparation,  use  and  application  of  colors,  with 
special  directions  applicable  to  each  example.  The 
whole  work  offering  valuable  hints  and  suggestions 
on  harmonious  color  treatment,  suitable  to  every 
variety  of  building.  By  E.  K.  Rossiter  and 
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paid,  - $5.00. 


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ILLUSTRATED. 


A new  system  of  Proportion,  showing;  the 
relation  between  an  order  of  Archi- 
tecture and  a Building 
of  any  kind. 

Rules  for  finding  the  Height  of  Foundations,  Bases, 
Water-Table,  Windowsills,  Doors,  Windows,  Balus- 
trades, and  Superimposed  Stories  ; Width  of  Doors, 
Windows,  Architraves,  Pilasters  and  Posts  ; Height 
and  Projection  of  Entablatures,  Cornices,  and  all 
Exterior  Finish.  Also  Height  of  Bases,  Window 
Stools ; Height  and  Projection  of  Stucco-Cornices  and 
Interior  Finish,  with  many  valuable  tables. 

By  A.  J.  BRYAN,  Architect. 


•Price,  post-paid. 


$1.50. 


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47 


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Consisting  of  44  Large  Quarto  Plates. 


Containing  ‘Original  Designs  of 
Medium  and  Low  Cost  Cottages,  Sea- 
side and  Country  Houses.  Also,  a 
School  House,  Club  House,  Pavilion, 
and  a Small  Seaside  Chapel. 

Together  with  a form  of  Specification 
for  Cottages. 

All  in  the  latest  prevailing  styles, 
from  the  drawings  of  a number  of 
prominent  architects,  thus  securing  a 
great  variety  of  plans  and  diversity  of 
treatment,  and  offering  the  largest  op- 
portunity for  selection. 

One  Large  Quarto  Volume. 

Price , post-paid,  $ 5.00. 


48 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


■A^jdt-11  IStiA,  1881. 


WITHERS' 

Church  Architecture, 

Reduced  to  $10. 

This  is  a Standard -Work,  and  vhry  valuable  for  all 

ARCHITECTURAL  LIBRARIES, 

We  have  only  250  copies  to  sell  at  Ten  Dollars, 
which  is  one-half  the  original  price. 

IT  IS  ILLUSTRATED  WITH 

Plans , Elevations  and  Views  of  Twenty- 
one  Churches  and  Two  School- Houses,  Photo- 
Lithographed  from  Original  Drawings  j also 
full  descriptive  Letter-press , which  includes 
numerous  Engravings  on  Wood , showing  Con- 
struction and  Details. 

Making  in  all  the  finest  work  on  Church 
Architecture  published. 

One  large  volume  of  fifty-one  9x14  plates, 

substantially  bound  in  extra  cloth,  sent  by  mail  or 
express,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States,  upon  receipt 
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49 


JUST  PUBLISHED. 

A NEW  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED  EDITION  OF 

CAMERON’S 

Plasterer’s  Manual 

By  K.  CAME1103T. 

Containing  accurate  descriptions  and 
illustrations  of  tools  and  materials  used  in 
Plastering.  Description  of  the  appearance 
and  action  of  every  variety  of  Lime  and 
Cement ; Instructions  for  making  all  kinds 
of  Mortar ; Instructions  for  doing  all  kinds 
of  Plain  and  Ornamental  Plastering ; Cis- 
tern Building  ; Form  of  Contract;  Useful 
Tables : many  important  Receipts,  etc. 
Cloth.  i2mo. 


PRICE,  POST-PAID,  75  CEUTS, 


50 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


JUST  PUBLISHED. 


House  Painting,  Carriage  Painting  & Graining. 

WMAT  TO  DO,  AND  MOW  TO  DO  IT. 

By  JOHN  W.  MASURY. 

One  8vo  Volume,  Cloth.  Price,  Post-Paid,  $1.50. 

CONTENTS. 

Chapter  I.— Colors  and  their  uses. 

II.— Light  and  Color 

III. — Ornamenting  with  Colors. 

IV. — Paints : Their  Origin  and  Sources. 

V— Mixing  Paints  and  Colors. 

VI.— Mixing  Paints  and  Colors.  (Continued.) 

VII.— Paint  as  Affected  by  Atmospheric  Agencies. 

VIII.— Exterior  House  Painting. 

IX.— New  System  of  Interior  House  Painting. 

X.— Whitewashing,  or  coloring  Walls  and  Ceilings, 
called  Kalsomining. 

XI.— Paris  Green  as  a Pigment. 

XII.— Graining  as  a Fine  Art. 

XIII— Painted  Imitations  of  Colored  Woods,  Tech- 
nically called  Graining. 

XIV.— Ground  and  Graining  Colors. 

XV — Tools  required  for  Graining. 

XVI.— Light-Oak  Graining. 

XVII.— Dark-Oak  Graining. 

XVIII.— Black-Walnut  Graining. 

XIX.— Ash  Graining. 

XX.— Chestnut  Graining. 

XXI.— New  System  of  Graining  on  tTnpainted  Pine 
Wood  Surfaces. 

XXII.— Distemper  Graining. 

XXIII.— Bird’s-Eye  Maple 

XXIV.— Mahogany  Graining. 

XXV.— Rosewood  Graining. 

XXVI.— Satin  wood  Graining. 

XXVII.— Black- walnut  Graining  in  Distemper. 

XXVIII.— Liglit-Oak  Graining  in  Distemper. 

XXIX  .—V  arnishing. 

XXX.— General  Remarks. 

XXXI.— How  to  Paint  a Carriage. 

XXXII.— Preparation  of  the  Surface. 

XXXIII.— Carriage  Varnishing. 

XXXIV.— The  New  Method. 

XXXV.— Painting  and  Varnishing. 

XXXVI.— Evils  and  their  Remedies. 

XXXVII.— Cleaving  of  Varnish  from  the  Color. 
XXXVIII.— How  to  get  the  Best  Results. 

XXXIX.— Adulteration  and  Waste. 

XL.— The  Use  of  Ready  Ground  Colors. 

. XLL— How  to  make  the  Best  Job  in  Black. 


6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


51 


A VALUABLE  BOOK  FOR  ARCHITECTS  AM  BUILDERS. 

SECOND  EDITION . 


In  Cities,  Villages  & Rural  Neighborhoods, 


WITH  CONSIDERATIONS  OF  VARIOUS  CAUSES  AF- 
FECTING THE  HEALTHFULNESS  OF 
DWELLINGS. 

By  JAMES  C.  BAYLES, 

Editor  of  The  Iron  Age  ” and  “ 7^^  Metal  Worker 

Largs  octavo  of  360  pages,  fully  illustrated.  Sub- 
stantially bound  in  cloth , with  beveled  edges . 


Chapter  I.— Hygiene  in  its  Practical  Relations  to 
Health.  II. — -Sewer  Gas.  III. — Waste  and  Soil 

Pipes.  IV. — Traps  and  Seals,  and  Ventilation  of 
Waste  Pipes.  V. — Water  Closets.  VI. — Service 

Pipes  and  Water  Distribution.  VII.— Tanks  and 
Cisterns.  VIII. — The  Chemistry  of  Plumbing. 

IX. — Elementary  Hydraulics  applicable  to  Plumbing 
Work.  X. — Sanitary  Construction  and  Drainage  of 
Country  Houses.  XI. — Water  Supply  in  Country 
Districts.  XII. — Suggestions  concerning  the  Sani- 
tary Care  of  Premises.  XIII. — The  Plumber  and 
his  work. 


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52 


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JUST  ISSUED. 

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tery  and  Decoration,  under  the  title  of 


^FASHIONABLE  FURNITURE-^ 


embracing  100  elegant  designs  by  B.  J.  Talbert,  Architect;  a 
series  of  Domestic  Interiors  by  Henry  Shaw,  Architect,  together 
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of  note.  116  Lithographic  Plates  and  4 pp.  0/  Letter-press. 

4 to.  Price,  in  Portfolio,  . . . . $ 8.00 


■^minimi  ni&iiMt" 

ill*,  fi><  fell* 


ji 


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BICKNELL’S  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS.— Containing  twenty-one 
Plates  (Plates  90-108  and  133-135  Wooden  and  Brick  Buildings), 
showing  Libraries,  Town  Hall,  Masonic  Hall,  Hotels,  Opera 
House,  Court  House  and  Railway  Stations,  including  a variety 
of  details  of  same,  Descriptive  Letter-press,  etc.  Drawings  to 

scale.  Price $3.50 

BICKNELL’S  STABLES,  OUT-BUILDINGS,  FENCES  AND 
MISCELLANEOUS  DETAILS. — Containing  twenty-four 
Plates  (136  to  160  W.  and  B.  Buildings),  showing  sixteen  Plans, 
Elevations  and  Views  of  Stables,  several  Out-Buildings  and 
Fences,  and  over  one  hundred  Miscellaneous  Details.  Also, 
Summer  Houses,  Seaside  Cottages,  Boat  Houses,  Street  View 
of  Twelve  Dwellings,  etc.  Elevations  and  Plans  to  scale. 

Price,  post-paid $2*50 

WQOLLETT’S  VILLAS  AND  COTTAGES.— One  volume,  ob- 
long 8vo  of  forty  8x12  Plates.  Cloth.  Price $3.00 

WOOLLETT’S  OLD  HOMES  MADE  NEW.— One  oblong  vol- 
ume, 7x11.  Illustrated.  Price $1.50 

SPECIMEN  BOOK  OF  ONE  HUNDRED  ARCHITECTUR- 

AL DESIGNS. — This  work  shows  a great  variety  of  Plans, 
Elevations,  Views  and  Details  from  various  publications. 
Several  of  the  designs  shown  have  been  used  in  Illustrated 
Catalogues,  but  sufficient  new  matter  is  added  to  make  it  a very 
desirable  book  of  selection  for  builders  and  all  who  contemplate 
building.  One  8vo  volume,  80  pages,  handsomely  bound  in 
cloth.  Price $1.00 

Description  0/  contents  of  each  Plate  of  above  works,  except 
Specimen  Book*  furnished  on  application. 


6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


55 


STANDARD  BOOKS  ON 

ArchitectnralDetails. 

BICKNELL’S  DETAIL,  COTTAGE  AND  CON- 
STRUCTIVE ARCHITECTURE  .—Containing 
seventy-five  large  Lithographic  Plates,  pub- 
lished under  the  direction  of  A.  J.  Bicknell, 
showing  a great  variety  of  Designs  for  Cornices, 
Brackets,  Windows  and  Window  Caps,  Doors, 
Piazzas,  Porches,  Bay  and  Dormer  Windows, 
Observatories,  Towers,  Chimney  Tops,  Balcon- 
ies, Canopies,  Scrolls,  Gable  and  Sawed  Orna- 
ments, Fences,  Stairs,  Newels,  Architraves, 
Mantles,  Plaster  Finish,  etc.,  including  forty-five 
Perspectives,  Elevations,  and  Plans  of  Modern 
Designs  for  Cottages,  with  Details,  and  eighteen 
Elevations  of  Summer  Houses,  Villas,  Seaside 
Cottages  and  Country  Houses,  together  with 
fourteen  Designs  for  Street  and  Store  Fronts, 
with  inside  finish  for  Stores  and  Banks;  also 
Framing  for  Dwellings,  Barns,  Exhibition  Build- 
ings, Roofs,  Bridges,  etc.,  etc.,  making  in  all  a 
Practical  Book  for  Architects,  Builders,  Carpen- 
ters and  all  who  contemplate  Building  or  Re- 
modeling Wood,  Stone  or  Brick  Buildings.  One 
large  4to  volume,  sent  free  by  mail  or  express 
on  receipt  of  price.  - $10.00. 

CUMMINGS’  ARCHITECTURAL  DETAILS.— 
By  M.  F.  Cummings,  M.  A.  Architect,  Associate 
Author  of  “Architecture,  by  Cummings  and 
Miller.”  Containing  387  Designs  and  967  Illus- 
trations of  the  Various  Parts  needed  in  the 
Construction  of  Buildings,  Public  and  Private, 
both  for  the  City  and  Country ; also,  Plans  and 
Elevations  of  Houses,  Stores,  Cottages,  and 
other  Buildings.  One  large  4to  volume,  fifty-six 
Plates.  Reduced  from  $ 10.00  to  - $o.oo 


56 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER 


VALUABLE  BOOKS 

— ON — 

CARPENTRY. 


THE  CARPENTER’S  AND  BUILDER’S  GUIDE.  — Being  a 
Hand-Book  for  Workmen  ; also  a Manual  of  Reference  for  Con- 
tractors, Builders,  etc.  By  P.  W.  Plummer.  Third  Edition. 

Price $1.00 

CARPENTERS’  AND  BUILDERS’  ASSISTANT,  AND 
WOOD-WORKERS’  GUIDE.— By  L.  D.  Gould,  Architect 
and  Practical  Builder.  Containing  twenty-three  plates,  fully 
described.  Also,  Tables  of  the  Strength  of  Materials,  Length 
of  Braces  where  the  Run  is  given,  and  Length  of  Run  where 
the  Brace  is  given,  Technical  Terms  used  by  Carpenters,  etc., 

etc.  8vo  volume,  bound  in  cloth.  Price. . . $2.50 

This  work  is  intended  to  combine  all  the  knowledge  the  work- 
man requires  to  construct  any  design  in  carpentry  by  an  easy 
system  of  lines. 

BELL'S  CARPENTRY  FOR  CARPENTERS,  BUILDERS 
AND  MECHANICS. — Carpentry  made  easy.  One  of  the  best 

books  on  Framing.  Price $5.00 

HATFIELD.  R.  G.— THE  AMERICAN  HOUSE-CARPEN- 
TER.— A Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Building  and  Strength  of 
Materials.  Revised  and  improved  edition,  with  about  150 

pages,  and  numerous  additional  plates.  1 vol.  8vo $5.00 

THE  PRACTICAL  CARPENTER  AND  JOINER.— Showing 
practical  methods  for  obtaining  every  conceivable  cut  requisite 
in  Constructive  Carpentry,  Joinery  and  Stair-Building,  by 
Robert  Riddell.  Containing  24  plates  on  carpentry,  and  8 
plates  on  Hand-Railing.  One  folio  vol. 

Price  reduced  from $10  to  $7.50 

TREDGOLD.  The  Elementary  principles  of  Carpentry.  By 
Thomas  Tredgold,  C.E.  5th  edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  4*0, 

cloth.  London,  1870.  Price $10.00 

All  kept  in  Stock,  and  Post-paid  on  receipt  of  Price. 


G ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


57 


J" "u.st  Pulolislieci. 

A Re-issue  of 

JML  O KTCKTOKT^S 

NATIONAL  CARPENTER  & JOINER. 

A Complete  Work  on  Constructive  Carpentry,  showing  the 
Simplest  Methods  of  finding  all  Joints  and  Geometrical  Forms, 
including  Splayed  Work,  Groined  Ceilings,  Framing,  Roofing, 
Domes,  Niches,  Raking,  and  Level  Mouldings,  etc. 

By  JAMES  II.  MONCKTON. 

Containing  45  plates,  with  full  descriptive  letter-press. 

One  Quarto  Vol.  Cloth . JPricef  post-paid,  $5.00, 

THE  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED  EDITION  OF 

Carnantars’  k Bnilflers’  Assistant, 

AND  WOOD-WORKERS’  GUIDE , 

By  L.  D.  GOULD,  Architect  and  Practical  Builder. 

Hcducocl  from  $53  to  $2.30 


This  Work  Contains 

Twenty-seven  Plates,  fully  described. 

Also,  Tables  of  the  Strength  of  Materials,  Length  of  Braces 
where  the  Run  is  given,  and  Length  of  Run  where  the  Brace  is 
given.  Technical  Terms  used  by  Carpenters,  etc.,  etc. 

One  8vo  Vol.,  Clothe  Price  Post-paid,  $2.50. 


Full  Description  of  Contents  on  Application. 


58 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

—ON— 


Stair 


Buildin 


THE  AMERICAN  STAIR-BUILDERS’  GUIDE.— By  L.  D. 
Gould.  Ilustrated  by  32  Original  Plates,  with  Supplement  of 
5 additional  Plates  showing  a variety  of  Newels,  Balusters  and 
Rails,  fully  described  and  drawn  to  scale.  One  8vo  volume. 
Price.  ..  .$3.00. 

MONCKTON’S  NATIONAL  STAIR  BUILDER.— A Com- 
plete Work  on  Stair-Bulding  and  Hand-Railing.  Fully  Ex- 
plained and  Illustrated  by  Large  Scale  Diagrams,  in  two  colors, 
with  Designs  for  Stair-cases,  Newels,  Balusters,  and  Hand- 
Rails.  Royal  quarto.  Price $5.00. 

RIDDELL.— THE  NEW  ELEMENTS  OF  HAND  RAILING. 
— Revised  Edition,  containing  Forty-one  Plates,  Thirteen  of 
which  are  now  for  the  first  time  presented,  together  with  ac- 
companying letter-press  description.  The  whole  giving  a 
complete  elucidation  of  the  Art  of  Stair-Building,  by  Robert 
Riddell,  author  of  “ The  Practical  Carpenter  and  Joiner,”  etc. 
One  volume,  folio.  Price  ,..$7.00. 

NEW  WORK  BY  ROBERT  RIDDELL.— Entitled,  Lessons  on 
Hand-Railing  for  Learners . Illustrated  by  32  Plates.  Edition 
includes  Supplement  of  several  New  Plates.  Price  complete, 
cloth .Ss.oo. 


6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


59 


INDISPENSABLE  TO 

— ALL — 

Architects,  Builders,  Carpenters,  etc, 


THE  ARCHITECT’S  AND  BUILDER’S  POCKET  COM- 
PANION AND  PRICE  BOOK.— Consisting  of  a Short  but 
Comprehensive  Epitome  of  Decimals,  Duodecimals,  Geo  metry 
and  Mensuration ; with  Tables  of  U.  S.  Measures ; Sizes, 
Weights,  Strengths,  etc.,  of  Iron,  Wood,  Stone,  and  Various 
other  Materials.  Quantities  of  Materials  in  Given  Sizes  and 
Dimensions  of  Wood,  Brick  and  Stone  ; and  a Full  and  Com- 
plete Bill  of  Prices  for  Carpenters’  Work.  Also,  Rules  for 
Computing  and  Valuing  Brick  and  Brick  Work,  Stone  Work' 
Painting,  Plastering,  etc.  By  Frank  W.  Vogdes,  Architect. 
By  mail,  free  of  postage.  In  one  volume,  full  bound  in  pocket 
book  form.  Price $2.00.  Bound  in  Muslin $1.50 


LAKEY’S  VILLAGE  AND  COUNRY  HOUSES.-Cheap 
Homes  in  Wood,  Brick  and  Stone,  for  all  classes,  selected  from 
designs  published  in  t>he  American  Builder  containing  84 
plates  of  designs  of  low  and  medium  priced  houses,  drawn 
to  scale.  One  quarto  volume,  cloth.  Sent  by  mail  or  express, 
prepaid  on  receipt  of  price.  Price  reduced  from  $6.00 

to $5.00 

PALLISER’S  AMERICAN  COTTAGE  HOMES.— Illustrated 
by  40  9x12  Plates,  containing  50  Designs  of  Modern  Low-Priced 
Cottages  and  Workingmen’s  Homes,  suitable  for  erection  in 
City,  suburbs,  and  country  in  the  North,  South  and  West. 

Scale  indicated  on  each  plate.  Price $ 5 .OO 

PALLISER’S  MODEL  HOMES.— One  8vo  Volume,  cloth. 
28  full  page  6x9  plates.  Price $ 1 .OO 


60 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER 


STANDARD  BOOKS 

— ON — 

Church  Architecture. 


♦WITHERS’  CHURCH  ARCHITECTURE.— By  Frederick 
Clark  Withers.  Illustrated  with  Plans,  Elevations  and  Views 
of  twenty-one  Churches  and  two  School  Houses,  Photo-Litho- 
graphed from  original  drawings ; also,  full  descriptive  Letter- 
press,  which  includes  numerous  Engravings  on  Wood,  showing 
Construction  and  Details.  One  large  volume  of  fifty-one  9x1 
Plates,  substantially  bound  in  extra  cloth,  sent  by  express  to 
any  part  of  the  United  States  on  receipt  of  the  price.  $10  00 
♦BICKNELL’S  SCHOOL  HOUSE  AND  CHURCH  ARCHI- 
TECTURE.— Containing  twenty-three  Plates  (109-132  W.  and 
B.  Buildings),  showing  twenty-six  Plans  and  Elevations  of  Dis- 
trict, Village  and  City  School  Houses  ; twenty-five  Plans,  Ele- 
vations,Views  and  Sections  of  medium  and  low-priced  Churches, 
including  a variety  of  Miscellaneous  Church  Details,  etc.  De- 
signs to  scale.  Price,  post-paid $3 .00 

COMMON  SENSE  IN  CHURCH  BUILDING.— By  E.  C. 
Gardner,  author  of  u Homes,  and  How  to  Make  Them,”  “ Il- 
lustrated Homes,”  and  “ Home  Interiors.”  Illustrated  by 
seven  Original  Plates.  One  i2mo  volume,  handsomely  bound 

in  cloth.  Sent  post-paid  on  receipt  of  price $1 .00 

RURAL  CHURCH  ARCHITECTURE.— Twenty  Designs  for 
Churches,  of  different  Styles  and  Cost.  Elevations,  splendidly 
Chromo-Lithographed  in  colors.  By  the  following  prominent 
Architects  : Upjohn,  Renwick,  Wheeler,  Wells,  Austin,  Stone, 
Cleveland,  Backus,  Reeve  and  Eveleth.  The  only  work  pub- 
lished on  low-priced  Churches.  Price $4.00 

* Description  0/  contents  of  each  Plate  furnished  on  application. 


6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


61 


STANDARD  BOOKS. 


WOODWARD’S  NATIONAL  ARCHITECT.— YoL  i.  New 
edition.  Complete  in  itself,  1,000  Designs,  Plans,  and  Details 
for  Country,  Suburban,  and  Village  Honses,  with  Perspective 
Views,  front  and  side  elevations,  sections,  full  detail  drawings, 

specifications,  and  estimates.  Price $ 7 .50 

WOODWARD’S  NATIONAL  ARCHITECT.  Volume  2, 

Price $7.50 

WOODWARD’S  COTTAGES  AND  FARM-HOUSES.— 188 
Designs  and  Plans  of  low  priced  Cottages,  Farm  Houses,  and 

Out-Buildings.  Price $ 1 .00 

WOODWARD’S  SUBURBAN  AND  COUNTRY  HOUSES,— 
70  Designs  and  Plans  and  numerous  examples  of  the  French 

Roof.  Price $1.00 

WOODWARD’S  COUNTRY  HOMES. — 150  Designs  and  Plans, 
with  Description  of  the  manner  of  Constructing  Balloon 

Frames.  Price $1.00 

JACQUES’  MANUAL  OF  THE  HOUSE.— How  to  Build 
Dwellings,  Barns,  Stables,  and  Out-Buildings  of  all  kinds.  126 

Designs  and  Plans.  Price $1*00 

EVELETH’S  SCHOOL-HOUSE  ARCHITECTURE.— Designs 
for  School-Houses,  with  Perspectives,  Elevations,  Plans,  Sec- 
tions, Details  and  Specifications,  all  drawn  to  working  scale, 
with  methods  of  Heating  and  Ventilation.  Large  quarto. 

Price $4.00 

HARNEY’S  BARNS,  OUTBUILDINGS  & FENCES.— Designs 
and  Plans  of  Stables,  Farm  Barns,  Outbuildings,  Gates,  Gate- 
ways, Fences,  Stable  Fittings  and  Furniture,  fully  described, 
with  nearly  200  Illustration^.  Royal  quarto  extra.  Price. 

REED’S  HOUSE  PLANS  FOR  EVERY  BODY.— Containing 
40  low-priced  Designs.  A valuable  little  work  which  meets  the 
wants  of  persons  of  moderate  means.  The  designs  are  mainly 
for  plain  and  inexpensive  dwellings  of  a character  suited  to 
rural  districts,  costing  $250  and  upwards.  Nearly  all  of  these 
plans  have  been  practically  tested.  They  provided  for  heating, 
ventilation,  etc.,  and  give  a large  share  of  what  are  called 
modern  improvements.  One  feature  of  the  work  is  of  special 
value,  giving  an  Estimate  of  the  Quantity  of  every  article 
used  in  construction  and  the  Cost  of  each  material  at  the  time 
the  building^  was  erected  or  the  design  made. ? Even  if  prices 
vary  from  time  to  time,  one  can,  from  these  data,  ascertaim 
within  a few  dollars,  the  probable  cost  of  constructing  any  one 
of  the  buildings  here  presented.  175  Illustrations,  i2mo. 
Price,  post-paid $1.50 


62 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER 


BOOKS  SUITED  TO 

MASONS  & BUILDERS. 


Notes  on  Jiuilding  Construction. 

IN  3 ILLUSTRATED  VOLS.,  PRICE,  $13,00. 
VOL,.  I 

Treats  on  Walling  and  Arches  ; Brickwork  ; Masonry ; Carpentry; 
Floors  ; Partitions ; Timber  Roofs  ; Iron  Roofs ; Slating ; Plumbers’ 
Work ; Cast-Iron  Girders,  etc.;  Joinery.  Price,  post-paid,  $3.50* 

VOL.  II 

f*eats  on  Brickwork  and  Masonry;  Timber  Roofs : Roof  Coverings  ; 
Built-up  Beams  ; Curved  Ribs,  Timber  and  Iron  Girders  ; Centres ; 
Joinery;  Stairs;  Riveting;  Fire-Proof  Floors;  Iron  Roofs;  Plas- 
terers’ Work  ; Painting,  Paper-T&nging  and  Glazing.  Price,  post- 
paid  $3.50. 

VOL.  IIS 

Treats  on  Materials.  1st.  Sione ; 2d.  Bricks,  Tiles,  Terra  Cotta; 
etc.;  3d.  Limes,  Cements,  Mortar,  Concrete,  Plaster  and  Asphalts; 
4th.  Metals*  5th.  Timber*  6th.  Paints  and  Varnishes*  7th.  Glass; 
8th.  Paper-Hanging;  9th.  Miscellaneous.  Price,  post-paid,  $6.00* 

These  three  volumes  are  sold  singly  or  in  sets,  and  are  regarded 
the  best  authority  on  the  general  sunjects  named.  They  are  the 
latest  English  works  giving  such  a complete  and  thorough  treatise, 


PLASTERER’S  MANUAL, 

Containing  accurate  descriptions  and  illustrations  of  tools  and 
materials  used  in  Plastering. 

By  K..  CAMEKON. 

Thrice,  Cloth.  12mo,  75  Cento. 


Foundations  and  Foundation  Walls, 

PILE  DRIVING,  BUILDING  STONES  AND  BRICKS. 

Illustrations  of  Foundation,  Pier  and  Wall  Constructions,  Mortars, 
Limes,  Cements,  Concretes,  Stuccos,  etc.  60  illustrations. 

By  &E0.  T.  POWELL,  Architect  and  Civil  Engineer,  If,  Y, 

To  which  Is  added  a treatise  on  Foundations,  with  practical  illus- 
trations of  the  method  of  isolated  piers  as  folloY*%d  in  Chicago. 

By  Frederick  Baumann,  Architect. 

One  Vol.,  8vo,,  Cloth,  - Price,  $1.50,  ^ 


6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


63 


BOOKS 

— FOR — 

Draughtsmen  & Architectural  Students 

Ames’  Alphabets#— Adapted  to  the  use  of  Architects,  En- 
gravers, Engineers,  Artists,  Sign  Painters,  Draughtsmen,  etc. 
This  work  has  been  prepared  under  our  supervision,  and  with 
especial  reference  to  the  wants  of  Architects,  Sign  Painters, 
and  Draughtsmen.  Architects  will  find  examples  of  the  most 
common  words  in  use  on  their  drawings,  so  that  if  desired 
they  may  be  transferred  directly  to  their  drawings,  “ with  in- 
structions in  regard  to  tracing  and  transferring,  and  the  prep- 
aration of  India  Ink.”  This  will  be  especially  valuable  to 
Architectural  Students  and  Amateurs.  Sign  Painters  will  find 
fancy  and  shaded  letters  especially  adapted  to  their  wants, 
while  every  alphabet  in  the  book  will  be  found  suggestive. 

One  Oblong  volume,  33.7  x n well  filled  Plates,  handsomely  bound 
in  cloth.  Price,  post-paid,  $ 1 .50 

The  Stepping  Stone  to  Architecture.— By  Thomas 
Mitchell.  Nearly  100  engravings.  Price*  .60 

Mini  fie  (Wm.)  Mechanical  Drawing-.-A  Text-Book 
of  Geometrical  Drawing  for  the  Use  of  Mechanics  and  Schools, 
in  which  the  Definitions  and  Rules  of  Geometry  are  familiarly 
explained ; the  Practical  Problems  are  arranged  from  the 
most  simple  to  the  more  complex,  and  in  their  description, 
technicalities  are  avoided  as  much  as  possible.  With  Illustrations 
for  Drawing  Plans.  Sections  and  Elevations  of  Buildings  and 
Machinery;  an  Introduction  to  Isometrical  Drawing,  and  an 
Essay  on  Linear  Perspective  and  Shadows.  Illustrated  by  over 
200  Diagrams,  engraved  on  steel.  With  an  Appendix  on  the 
Theory  and  Application  of  Colors.  x vol.  8vo,  cloth.  9th 
edition.  1877.  4«00. 


64 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


Three  of  the  Best  Self-Instructing  Drawing  Books  on 


PERSPECTIVE,  AND 


The  Illustrated  Architectural  Engineering  & 
Mechanical  Drawing  Book. — A self-instructor 
for  the  use  of  Architects,  Builders,  Students,  &c., 
with  upwards  of  300  illustrations.  By  Robert 
Scott  Burn.  This  is  one  of  the  best  works 
published  on  Architectural  Drawing,  and  will  aid 
any  persevering  person  to  acquire  a good  knowledge 
of  the  subject.  No.  1.  Price,  post-paid  $1.00 
The  Illustrated  Drawing  Book,  for  Schools, 
Students  and  Artisans. — With  300  Illustrative 
Drawings  and  Diagrams.  By  Robert  Scott 
Burn.  Embracing  the  practice  of  pencil  sketching. 
The  practice  of  figure  and  object  drawing.  A full 
and  comp'ete  explanation  of  the  principles  and 
practice  of  perspective  ; also,  of  Isometrical  Draw- 
ing. No.  2.  Price,  post-paid $1.00 

The  Illustrated  Book  of  Ornamental  Drawing 
and  Architectural  Design. — With  upwards  of 
200  examples.  By  Robert  Scott  Burn.  Giving 
instructions  in  Decorative  Drawing ; Illustrated 
Historical  notices  of  different  styles  of  Architecture, 
and  a variety  of  Architectural  Plans  and  Details 
for  practice.  No.  3.  Price,  post-paid.  . . . $1.00 


6 ASTOK  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


63 


TECHNICAL  MANUALS 

Ter  Joiners,  Carpenters , Builders , Cabinet-Makers , 
Stone  Masons  and  Others. 


Davidson’s  Linear  Drawing  and  Practical 
Geometry — By  Ellis  A.  Davidson,  Lecturer  on  Engi- 
neering and  Architectural  Drawing  in  the  City  of  London  Mid- 
dle Class  Schools.  With  about  150  Illustrations  and  Six  whole 
page  Diagrams  of  working  Drawings.  Fourteenth  thousand. 

128  pages,  extra  fcap,  8vo.  Cloth,  limp $1  #00 

Orthographic  and  Isometricai  Projection  treats 
of  tne  Projection  of  Plans,  Elevations  aud  Sections  of 
Solids,  and  the  development  of  Surfaces,  etc.  With  about 
Forty  whole  page  Diagrams.  Tenth  thousand.  128  pages, 

extra  fcap,  8vo.  Cloth,  limp,  $ I .00 

Building  Construction,  the  Elements  of,  and  Archi- 
tectural Drawing,  with  130  Illustrations.  128  pages,  extra  fcap, 

8vo.  Cloth,  limp $1.00 

Drawing  for  Carpenters  and  Joiners.  Contain- 
taining  a description  of  the  Construction  of  each  Subject,  and 
the  Method  of  Drawing  it;  with  Elementary  Lessons  n Free- 
hand and  Object  Drawing.  250  Illustrations  and  Drawing 

Copies.  Extra  fcap,  8vo  Cloth $1.75 

Practical  Perspective.  Containing  Perspective  Pro- 
jection of  Simple  Points,  Lines,  Planes  and  Rectangular  Solids; 
Polygons,  Prisms,  Pyramids,  Circles,  Cylinders  and  Arches,  etc 
With  Thirty-six  double-page  Illustrations.  Extra  fcap,  8vo. 

Cloth.... $1.50 

Drawing  for  Stone  Masons.  With  Elementary  Les- 
sons in  Freehand  and  Object  Drawing,  and  a concise  history 
of  Masonry.  Containing  Six  double  and  Twenty-five  single 
pp.  of  Illustrations  adapted  for  Drawing  Copies.  Cloth,  $ 1 .50 
Gothic  Stonework.  Containing  the  History  and  Princi- 
ples of  Church  Architecture,  and  Illustrations  of  the  Charac- 
teristic Features  of  each  Period,  the  Arrangement  of  Ecclesias- 
tical Edifices,  etc.  With  Seven  double  and  Eighteen  single 

pages  Plates.  Cloth $1.50 

Drawing  for  Bricklayers.  With  the  Elements  of 
Freehand,  Object  and  Plan  Drawing.  Containing  Two  double 
and  Thirty-two  single  pages  of  Illustrations,  adapted  for  Archi- 
tectural Drawing.  Cloth $1.50 

Drawing  for  Cabinet-Makers.  With  Lessons  in 
Ornamental  and  Object  Drawing;  Elementary  Instruction  in 
Water-Colored  Drawing,  containing  Twenty-nine  Plates, 

Cloth $1.50 

Systematic  Drawing  and  Shading,  giving  Practical 
Lessons  on  Drawing.  By  Charles  Ryan,  Head  Master, 
’ Lemington  School  of  Art.  Fifth  thousand  ^20  pages,  extra 

fcap,  8vo.  Cloth,  limp $ 1 .00 

All  Books  mailed  Postpaid,  on  Receipt  of  Price. 


66 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


JUST  ISSUED. 


— BY — 

Robert  Riddell. 


The  Wonders  of  the  Slide  Mule f and  i s Direct  Ap- 
plication for  the  Instant  Soliition  of  any 
Mroblem  in  Constructive  Carpentry . 

The  Circumference  of  Circles,  Length  of  Rafters,  Braces, 
Measurement  of  Cubes,  &c.,  &c. 

It  also  gives  with  equal  rapidity,  correct  answers  to  all  ques- 
tions relative  to  practical  mensuration  without  the  aid  of  either 
drawings,  pencil,  paper  or  effort  of  mind. 

This  marvel  of  ingenuity  and  beautifully  formed  instrument, 
is  ifc  one  section,  its  edge  beveled  and  divided  into  twelfths. 
The  slide  is  German  Silver,  and  it  has  astonishing  powers  of 
making  accurate  calculations  as  to  cost  of  materials,  work,  time, 
or  quantity.  This  valuable  information  is  easily  acquired  by  the 
mechanic  whose  opportunities  may  have  been  neglected  if  am- 
bitious to  learn,  and  willing  to  pay  out  for  it  about  what  he  may 
ear*  in  one  day. 

How  to  use  the  instrument  is  clearly  explained  in  one  volume, 
illustrated  by  32  engraved  plates  9x6,  and  44  pages  of  letter  press. 


Price  of  Book  and  Instrument,  $3.00. 


G ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


67 


BY  FRED.  T.  HODGSON, 

Editor  of  the  Builder  and  Wood-Worker . 


Being  a description  of  the  Carpenter’s  Framing  Square, 
giving  simple  and  easy  methods  of  obtaining  the  Lengths 
and  Bevels  of  all  kinds  of  Rafters,  Hips,  Groins,  Braces, 
Brackets,  PurKns,  Collar-Beams,  and  Jack-Rafters. 
Also,  its  application  in  obtaining  the  bevels  and  cuts  for 
Hoppers,  Spring  Mouldings,  Octagons,  Stairs,  and  Di- 
minished Stiles. 

Illustrated  by  over  Fifty  Large  and  Clear  Woodcuts . 


12mo  Vol.,  Cloth,  Price,  Post-paid,  $ 1.00. 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


VALUABLE 

ME6HANIGAL  BOOKS. 


MECHANICS’  GEOMETRY.— Plainly  teaching  the 
Carpenter,  Mason,  Metal-plate  Worker,  in  fact 
the  Artisan  in  any  and  every  branch  of  industry 
whatever,  the  constructive  principles  of  his  calling. 
Illustrated  by  accurate  explanatory  card  board 
Models  and  Diagrams  by  Robt.  Riddell.  One 
large  Quart  j volume,  Cloth.  Price $5.00 


THE  ARTISAN. — Illustrated  by  forty  plates  of  Geo- 
metric Drawings,  showing  the  most  practical 
methods  that  may  be  applied  to  works  of  Building 
and  other  constructions.  The  whole  is  intended 
to  advance  the  learner,  by  teaching  him  in  a plain 
and  simple  manner  the  utility  of  Lines,  and  their 
application  in  producing  results  which  are  indis- 
pensable in  all  Works  of  Art.  By  Robt.  Rid- 
dell. One  large  Quarto  volume,  Cloth. 

Price $5.00 


6 A STO  P PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


69 


Winsor  & Newton's  Bocks  on  Art, 

EACH,  50  CENTS. 


1.  The  Art  of  Sketching  from  Nature  by  Theo.  L.  Rowbotham. 

2.  Hints  of  Sketching  in  Water  Colors  from  Nature,  by  Thomas 

Hatton. 

3.  The  Art  of  Landscape  Painting  in  Water  Colors,  by  Th.  Row- 

botham. 

4.  A System  of  Water  Color  Painting,  by  A.  Penley. 

5.  The  Art  of  Marine  Painting  in  Water  Colors,  by  J.  W.  Car- 

michel. 

6.  The  Art  of  Portrait  Painting  in  Water  Colors,  by  M.  Merri- 

field. 

7.  The  Art  of  Miniature  Painting,  by  Ch.  W.  Day. 

8.  The  Art  of  Flower  Painting,  by  M.  Duffield. 

9.  The  Elements  of  Perspective,  by  A.  Penley. 

10.  The  Art  of  Figure  Drawing,  by  C.  H.  Weigall. 

11.  An  Artistic  Treatise  on  the  human  figure,  by  H.  Warren.  K.  L. 

12.  Artistic  Anatomy  of  the  human  figure,  by  H.  Warren.  K.  L. 

13.  The  Artistic  Anatomy  of  the  Horse,  by  B.  W.  Hawkins. 

14.  The  Artistic  Anatomy  of  Cattle  and  Sheep,  by  B.  W.  Hawkins. 

15.  * The  Art  of  Painting  and  Drawing  in  colored  crayons,  by  H. 

Murray. 

16.  The  Principles  of  Coloring  in  Painting,  by  Charles  Martel. 

17.  The  Principles  of  Form  in  Ornamental  Art,  by  Charles  Martel. 

18.  The  Art  of  Mural  Decoration,  by  T.  G.  Goodwin. 

19.  A Manual  of  Illumination,  by  J.  J.  Laing. 

20.  Companion  to  Manual  of  Illumination,  by  J.  J.  Laing. 

21.  Transparency  Painting  on  Linen,  by  W.  Williams. 

22.  The  Art  of  Transparent  Painting  on  Glass,  by  Ed.  Groom. 

23.  The  Art  of  Wood  Engraving,  by  Th.  Gilks. 

24.  Drawing  Models  and  their  uses,  by  J.  D.  Harding. 

25.  The  Art  of  Botanical  Drawing,  by  F.  W.  Burbidge. 


70 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER 


GEORGE  ROWNEY  & CO’S 

BOOKS  OH  ART. 

Paper  Covers— Each,  50c . 


Sketching  from  Nature.— Part  I.  By  N.  E.  Green. 

Illustrated  by  the  Author. 

Sketching  from  Nature,- Part  II.  By  N.  E.  Green. 
Illustrated  by  the  Author. 

sketching  from  Nature. — Part  III.  By  N.  E.  Green. 
Illustrated  by  the  Author. 

Figure  Painting  in  Water  Colors.— By  Sidney  T. 
Whiteford. 

Sketching  from  Nature  in  Water  Colors.— By 

L.  C.  Miles.  With  numerous  Illustrations  by  the  Author. 
Principles  of  Perspective. — By  Henry  Lewis. 
Water  Color  Painting. — By  R.  P.  Noble.  With  an 
Illustration  in  Colors. 

Oil  Pain  ting.— Part  I.  By  J.  S.  Templeton. 

Oil  Painting.  — Part  II.  Landscape  from  Nature.  By  A. 
Clint. 

Pictorial  Art. -By  H.  O’Neil. 

Pictorial  Perspective. — By  B.  R.  Green,  With  Illus- 
trations. 

Figure  lira  Wing. — By  G.  E.  Hicks.  With  Illustrations. 

Flower  Painting  in  Water  Colors  —By  G.  Rosen- 
berg. With  Illustrations. 

miniature  Painting  and  Coloring  Photo- 
graphs.— By  J.  S.  Iempleton. 

Sketching  Trees  lrom  Nature  in  Water  Colors. 

—By  Thomas  Hatton. 

materials  used  in  Painting.— With  Remarks  on  Var- 
nishing and  Cleansing  Pictures.  By  Charles  Martel. 
inimal  Drawing.-By  C.  H.  Wiegall.  With  numer- 
ous Illustrations. 

illuminating  ar*d  missal  Painting.— By  W.  and 

G.  Audslf.y.  With  Illustrations  in  Colors. 

Light  and  Shade  Drawing.— By  Mrs.  Merrifeld. 
With  Illustrations. 

Pencil  ond  C halk  Drawing.— By  G.  Haeley.  Vith 
Illustrations. 

Painting  on  Glass.— By  H.  Bielfeld. 


6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


71 


Oust  FutDlisl^ecI, 


PALLISER’S 

PRINTED  SPECIFICATIONS 

FOR  FRAME  AND  BRICK  BUILDINGS. 

ADAPTED  TO  USE  OF 

ARCHITECTS,  CONTRACTORS,  &o. 


Suitable  for  every  description  of  building  except 
Churches.  The  Divisions  of  Labor  and  Materials  recog- 
nized are  as  follows: 

Masonry  (including  brickwork),  Carpentry  9 
Painting , Slating , Tinning 9 Plumb- 
ing and  Steam  Heating, 

Each  department  is  provided  with  sufficient  blank  spaces 
for  the  description  of  exceptional  features  of  work.  The 
whole  specification — legal  cap  size — is  neatly  bound  in 
paper  cover,  provided  with  a flap  for  rolling,  and  furnished 
with  a tape  for  tying. 

Ample  spaces  are  provided  for  the  architect's  imprint, 
which  may  be  inserted  in  writing  or  may  be  printed  in. 
Two  blank  contracts  are  included  in  each. 

Valuable  to  all  architects.  Builders  should  have  these 
Specifi  ations  and  become  acquainted  with  their  contents; 
also  those  contemplating  building  should  procure  a set 
and  study  them. 

PRICES  : 

SINGLE  COPIES,  POST-PAID,  including  2 forms 

of  Contraot,  - - - - $0  50 

PER  DOZEN  COPIES,  POST-PAID,  - - 4 00 

Supplied  singly  or  by  the  dozen,  by 


2 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


Just  IPutolisliocI. 


A Third  Edition , revised  and  enlarged, 


HALLETTS 

Specifications 

— FOR — 

IE  HOUSES. 


Among  the  additions  will  be  found  a new 

GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS, 

the  schedule  of  Architects’  Fees,  a Revised  form  of  Con- 
tract, &c. 

This  is  a complete  and  practical  work.  It  has,  since 
the  first  edition,  been  before  the  public  for  nearly  ten 
years,  and  we  believe  it  now  to  be  recognized  as  the 
general  standard  work. 

It  contains  in  concise  form,  everything  necessary  to  go 
into  a complete  and  perfect  dwelling,  making  it  valuable 
for  all  who  write  specifications;  also,  fur  students,  ama- 
teurs, and  all  those  who  contemplate  building. 

ONE  SMALL  QUARTO  VOLUME,  BOUND  IN  PAPER  COVER, 

Price  Reduced  from  $1.75  to  $1.00. 

Substantially  bound  in  Cloth,  price,  $1.50. 


73 


X 

6 ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 

NEW  AND  REVISED  EDITION. 


-HBROWN’SK 


FOR  CARPENTERS,  BUILDERS  AND  LUMBER  MEN. 


By  a Practical  Mechanic. 


This  work  contains  217  bills  of  timber  for  different 
sizes  of  buildings,  consisting  of  balloon,  half  balloon  and 
full  frames  for  houses,  barns,  etc.  All  barn  frames  are 
given  in  full  bills  of  timber  with  girths  boarded  and  bat- 
tened, or  studded  and  clapboarded.  For  all  the  above 
estimates  it  gives  not  only  the  quantity  of  timber  for  the 
frame,  but  the  number  of  pieces,  and  size  of  each  and 
every  sill,  beam,  plate,  stud,  post,  floor  joist,  girt,  raf- 
ter, etc.,  with  the  number  of  feet  of  sheathing  boards, 
floor  boards,  clapboards  and  shingles  required  for  each 
building  ; and  all  thoroughly  revised  and  tested  as  to 
accuracy. 

A thorough  explanation  of  the  mason  work,  giving 
proportions  of  sand  to  lime,  cement  to  gravel,  for  con- 
crete floors,  lime  and  cerfrent  for  brick,  etc.,  to  make 
good  work. 

Table  of  studding,  joist  and  square  timber;  rafter 
table;  simple  method  of  obtaining  the  length  and  bevels 
of  hip  rafters;  a short  method  of  obtaining  the  sides  of 
an  octagon  or  bay  window;  pitch  of  roof,  and  many 
valuable  tables;  measurement  of  lumber;  special  direc- 
tions for  measurement  of  wood  and  bark. 

One  large  8 vo.  vol .,  cloth , 150  pages , sent  post-paid  to  any 
address  on  receipt  of  $1.50. 


74 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


GREAT  REDUCTION  AND  A GREAT 
BARGAIN 

FOR  AN  AUTHOR’S  PUBLICATION,  ENTITLED 

Hussey’s  Home  Building 

Reduced  in  Price  from  $5.00  TO  $2,50  TO  CLOSE 

OUT  THE  NUMBER  WE  HAVE  NOW  SECURED  FROM 

the  Assignees. 


(Miniature  View  of  Design  Plate  31,  1st  and  2D  Floor 
Plans  to  Scale,  and  all  other  Plans  drawn  to 
Scale,  and  size  of  Rooms  given  in  Figures  ) 

This  work  contains  42  Plates  of  Designs  and  Plans  of  dwellings 
of  low  and  medium  cost  with  short  Descriptive  Specifications, 
including  2 Designs  for  small  Barns,  #Design  for  Carriage-House,  1 
Design  for  small  Bank  Building,  1 Design  for  small  Chapel,  and  1 
Design  for  a Church,  nearly  400  pages  in  all,  including  letter-press. 

On  May  1st,  1870,  we  secured  about  900  copies  of  this  work  and 
reduced  the  price  from  $5.00  to  $3.00,  we  have  now  bought  200  addi- 
tional copies,  and  shall  offer  them  till  sold  at  the  very  Tow  price  of 
Two  Dollars  and  Fifty  Cents  per  copy  and  will  forward  them 
post-paid  to  any  address.  _ ^ * 

This  is  a valuable  book  for  builders  and  those  contemplating 
bui'ding.  All  the  copies  are  substantially  and  handsomely  bound, 
making  it  a work  suitable  for  any  library  as  well  as  a work  of  prac- 
tical value.  A more  complete  description  may  be  found  in  our 
larger  32  page  catalogue,  which  will  be  mailed  free  on  application. 


6 ASTOR  PLx^CE,  NEW  YORK. 


JUST  ISSUED. 


DETAIL  ORNAMENT. 


A collection  of  Examples  and  Studies  for  the  use  of 
Designers,  embracing  from  five  to  six  hundred  different 
items  of  Design,  carefully  prepared  and  drawn  with 
a view  to  practical  availability  in  the  present  style  of 
work.  A feature  of  this  collection  is  an  abundance  of 
useful  Borders  and  Edgings. 


mt 

tifi 

| 

The  accompanying  Specimen  has  been  reduced  from 
the  pages  of  the  work,  and  fairly  represents  the  general 
character  of  its  contents. 

24  folio  tinted  Plates  (uniform  with  ‘ ‘ Modern  Surface 
Ornament  ”). 

> PRICE,  in  Portfolio,  $6.00. 


Sent  by  mail , prepaid^  on  receipt  0/ price . 


76 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 


Album  of  Modern  Furniture. 


55  Plates.  Price,  $7.00. 


45  Plates.  Price,  $6.00. 


The  two  above  combined  under  the  title  of 


THE  ART  WORKER. 

Price,  $12.00. 


Modern  Surface  Ornament. 

24  Plates.  Price,  $6.00. 


Four  excellent  Books  for  the  Designer  and  Manu- 
facturer of  Furniture.  Illustrated  Circular  on  applied 
tion. 


All  American  and  Foreign  Works  on  Architecture, 
Decoration  and  Ornament  supplied  or  imported  to  order. 


C ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


77 


Berm  Silrer  Drams  Mnnis 


contains  rfhia  iirrelf^/inj'sbeff  German  SHver  Insmimems.  a? 
follows : One  efinclf  iDiVKlei^With  pen,  pencil  needle  point  and  lengthening  hart  One  pai* 
Bi  inch  Hait  Spring  Dividers  ? one  pair  of  inch  Plain'  Diyiders  ; one  pain  Proportional 
J)ividcr$r  one  pair 3$  inchJDividers  with  pen»  pencil  and  needle  pointy j one  pair  3$  inch' 

C*  iJlmders;  one  Spring  jBow  Pen;  two  ^Drawing  Peas  and  Pencil  CaSe^  fill  in  morocco 

Pricelist  quality,  $20.00  2d  Qualify,  $F5.QO 


2Vo.  CohiaiiS  SJ'ineti 

fioedlc  point  DuocLflS; ’wiili  pen  ai)(L' 
pencil  point. 

Price,  $ I .26*  jVo.  12!). — Contains  foUT'fTtTelj’  finTs'hecl  th* 

ftruments,  as  follows : one  pair  4 inch  Dividers,  with’ 
pen,  pencil  and  needle  point ; one  pair  4 inch  plait. 
Dividers;  one  Spring:  .Bow  Pen' and  Pencil  ;*onflf 
Draw  in  a Pen  and  Pencil  Case,  jn  morocco  box. 

Price,,  $7,50, 


8 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER, 

SPECIAL  CASE  OF  INSTRUMENTS, 

and  Special  offer  for  it  and  a Book,  that  every  Draughtsman  and 
those  intending  to  become  Draughtsmen  should  have. 


CASE  A . 


German  Silver  Drawing  Instruments. 

SUITED  TO  BUILDERS,  AMATEURS  AND  OTHERS. 

Containing  3%  inch  Dividers,  with  pen  and  pencil  points,  and 
lengthening  bar  ; inch  Plain  Dividers  ; 3%  inch  Needle  Point 
Dividers,  with  pen  and  pencil  points  ; 5)2  inch  Drawing  Pen  ; 
brass  and  horn  Protractor ; Drawing  Pencil ; Compass  Pencil, 
and  3 inch  stick  of  India  Ink.  All  in  polished  rosewood  box, 
with  lock,  key  and  tra}^. 

Sent  posi-jiaid  on  receipt  of  $5.00. 

JUST  PUBLISHED, 

A.  TREATISE  0 1ST 

Mathematical  Drawing  Instruments, 

AND  MOW  TO  USE  THEM. 

One  imperial  i6mo  volume,  bound  in  cloth,  containing  152  pages, 
and  over  70  illustrations,  including  11  different  styles  of  lettering. 

Sent  post-paid  on  receipt  of  price f $1.50. 

When  Case  A and  the  above  book  are  ordered  at  one  time,  they 
will  be  sent  post-paid  on  receipt  of  $6.00. 


l£^“0nr  General  Circular  of  Instruments,  Tracing  Cloth. 
Drawing  Papers,  Inks,  &c.,  sent  on  application. 


6*  ASTOR  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


79 


UILDING 


This  paper  will  be  issued  the  mid- 
dle of  each  month,  and  no  effort  will  be 
spared  to  make  it  thoroughly  practical 
and  valuable  to  all  interested  in  Build- 
ing. Articles  on  different  subjects  will 
be  written  by  men  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  the  practical  and  theoret- 
ical questions  pertaining  to  their  own 
departments.  It  will  be  very  fully  il- 
lustrated, both  by  diagrams  and  cuts, 
and  contain  a large  number  of  new  de- 
signs of  country  and  city  houses,  inter- 
ior views  and  exterior  and  interior 
details,  prepared  expressly  for  this 
publication. 

OFFICE  OF  PUBLICATION, 

Wo.  © ASTOEt  PLACE,  KEW  FORK. 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  Publisher. 


SUBSCRIPTION, 


One  Dollar  a Year,  in  Advance 


80  WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  PUBLISHER 


An  Improved  Leveling  Instrument. 


Price  of  Instrument  Complete,  $20.00. 

Adapted  to  the  use  of  Architects,  Engineers,  Masons,  Builders 
Farmers  and  others. 

This  instrument  is  made  of  Brass  and  Iron,  furnished  with  both 
masons’  (short  metal)  and  surveyors’  tripod.  Put  up  i i handsome 
wooden  box  with  strap.  The  only  low  priced  Level  that  can  be  thor- 
oughly adjusted  in  the  field. 


This  rod  is  round  and  made  in  two  sections ; is  united  by  a solid 
screw  joint,  as  if  of  one  length,  and  has  a target.  There  are  two  scales’ 
one  side  being  Engineers’  (feet,  lOths  and  lOOths),  the  other  Archi- 
tects’ scale  (or,  feet  inches  and  8ths). 


Forwarded  by  express  on  receipt  of  price.  The  charg- 
es of  transportation  from  New  York  to  the  purchaser 
are  in  all  cases  to  be  borne  by  him , I guaranteeing  the 
safe  arrival  of  all  instruments  to  the  extent  of  express 
transportations , and  holding  the  express  companies 
responsible  to  me  for  all  losses  or  damages  on  the  way. 

Where  the  Levd  is  ordered  with  the  Rod , the  price  of  the 
two  will  be,  - - - - - $ 25.00 


A New  Leveling  Rod. 


Price, 


$6.00. 


Circular  on  Application. 


WILLIAM  T.  COMSTOCK,  Publisher, 


O Astor  Place,  I¥ew  York, 


